Saint Laurent : Before & After Yves catherine Pappas
History
Since the brand’s beginning in 1961 with designer Yves Saint Laurent, a legendary fashion label evolved known for its innovative and controversial designs. Designer Yves Mathieu-Saint-Laurent began his design career as Christian Dior’s assistant designer and produced his first piece in Dior’s 1955 line. Two years later, after Dior’s death, he became creative director of the line and debuted his first collection on January 30, 1958. His success was immediate and his designs earned the 21-year-old the prestigious Neiman Marcus Award ("Groupe Yves Saint Laurent.").
Three years later in 1962, after leaving Dior, the designer developed his first line with the help of Pierre Berge, after the establishment of the Yves Saint Laurent Couture House. After a successful few years, the designer launched Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, a ready to wear line that became available in Paris boutiques in 1966. The designer was one of the first luxury Paris fashion brands to market a ready-to-wear line. Throughout the 1960s, “Saint Laurent established his leading role on the Paris--and world--fashion scene. More than a star, Saint Laurent would come to represent haute couture itself, to the extent that, by the end of the 1960s, Gabrielle Chanel would designate Saint Laurent as her "spiritual heir." (Groupe Yves Saint Laurent).
Most notably, the designer’s 1966 line introduced a revolutionary concept in women’s fashion with the tuxedo. Saint Laurent was one of the first designers to suggest that trousers for women were acceptable, paving the way for more androgynous fashions of the 1970s. The women’s tuxedo became a staple each season for Saint Laurent. The designer went on to introduce the “ethnic” trend with the 1968 safari inspired collection, and later that year the first transparent designs inspiring designers for years to come. He was also the first designer to feature ethnic models in his runway shows, responsible for the launch of supermodel Iman’s international career.
The brand was always centered on women’s designs, but in 1969 Saint Laurent introduced the first men’s ready to wear line with Rive Gauche Homme. Expansions in the years following included a perfume line in 1971. Fragrance went on to become one of the brand’s most significant financial contributors to date.
Brand Personality
The Yves Saint Laurent brand was always known for its innovative and sometimes controversial designs. The 1971 spring couture collection was a perfect example of what the brand and designer stood for, but was initially hated by the fashion world. The pieces, called the “40’s” collection by the designer were inspired by the Nazi occupation of France and featured dark army colors, square shoulders, and knee length skirts. When asked about the collection, the designer said, "What do I want? To shock people, to force them to think. What I make is very much connected to contemporary American art. Young people, they don't have any memories," (Yves Saint Laurent, and Fashion's Most Scandalous Moments). The brand became a symbol of fashion that broke all the rules.
Saint Laurent without Yves – Recent Years & Looking Forward
Years after the designer’s death in 2012, the newly appointed creative director Hedi Slimane changed the brand’s ready to wear name from Yves Saint Laurent to Saint Laurent Paris. The rebranded line has brought financial success for the company, but the essence of the brand has changed dramatically. The legacy of “gender, sexuality, and culture” has been lost to a “formulaic and trite,” mainstream line (THE SCOURGING OF SAINT LAURENT). Today’s collections include leather jackets, short dresses and tight jeans. The brand’s image has shifted greatly with these new designs while appealing to a wider audience in retail outlets worldwide. For this mass-appeal reason, I expect the Saint Laurent brand will continue for years to come. After surviving these changes, the brand's iconic representation of women's fashion will never disappear.
Yves Saint Laurent Advertising - 1960s
Yves Saint Laurent Advertising - 1970s
Yves Saint Laurent Advertising - 1980s
Yves Saint Laurent Advertising - 1990s
Yves Saint Laurent Advertising - 2000s
Works Cited
"Groupe Yves Saint Laurent." International Directory of Company Histories. Ed. Tina Grant. Vol. 23. Detroit: St. James Press, 1998. Business Insights: Essentials. Web. 17 Feb. 2016.
Foreman, Liza. "Yves Saint Laurent, and Fashion's Most Scandalous Moments: It Might Seem Un-shocking Now, but in 1971 Yves Saint Laurent Caused Outrage with "Liberation" Collection of Wartime-inspired Designs." The Daily Beast [New York] 25 Mar. 2015: n. pag. The Newsweek/Daily Beast Company LLC. Web. 17 Feb. 2016.
Senft, Ashley. "Yves St. Laurent Brand History." History of Fashion. Fashion Time, 21 Jan. 2011. Web. 17 Feb. 2016. <http://www.fashionintime.org/yves-st-laurent-brand-history/>.