From Amsterdam to Seattle The Travel Adventures of A DUTCH Guy & HIS AMERICAN GIRL

What happens when you live abroad in the Netherlands, date a crazy dutch climber-surfer guy, have a car in Colorado and family living near Seattle, Washington? If you are Kelly Sierra and Robin Donders you make a ridiculous plan to drive from Colorado to Seattle in one month. We mapped out a very indirect and inefficient drive (approx. 3,250 miles). Our goal was to see the Western USA: to boulder, to surf, and to visit some iconic places along the way.

a. Kelly & Robin. b. the month-long plan!

ICELAND. Looking at flights we realized on the way from Amsterdam to Denver we could easily stopover in Iceland. Robin insisted we had to do this. We rented a car and gave ourselves three days to explore the snowy landscape and cozy Reykjavik.

Gullfoss. Damn it was cold out there.
Strokkur Geysir.

Our stopover was only three days, but we immediately feel in love with the country. Sharp snow covered mountains, ever changing colorful skies, whiffs of sulfur from the thermal activity, waterfalls, geysers, Icelandic horses, and a overall feeling of peace and calm.

Icelandic horses

Though covered in snow and with only 5 hours of sunlight, the colors of Reykjavik were never dull. We really enjoyed our short time in the city, and if we didn't have a whole month of awesome travel already planned we would have been a bit more sad to leave.

a. breakfast stop at the Grái Kötturinn. b. birds over the harbor. c. Harpa – Reykjavik Concert Hall. d. a sassy dog. e. the harbor. f. Reykjavíkurtjörn. g. Hallgrimskirkja.

FORT COLLINS, COLORADO. From Iceland to Denver wasn't a bad flight, especially since our fabulous friend Matt Tschohl picked us up at the airport and hosted us in Fort Collins. The next day the sun came out and he took us bouldering at Horsetooth Reservoir.

Colorado never disappoints

In three hours we made the best of the freezing temperatures and a little bit of sunshine. After climbing we packed up the car with some remnants of my time living in Fort Collins and got on the road!

Robin sending Moon Arete (V10) at Horsetooth Reservoir.

Our visit through Colorado was too fast. But we had a goal to be in Seattle in four weeks and still had so many stops planned along the way! Leaving the snowy Front Range we entered the Rocky Mountains.

a. Robin was excited about his first trip to the USA. b. Colorado, USA. c. our wonderful friend Matt Tschohl. d. the Boulder Flatirons on our way out of town. e. Vail Pass.

MOAB, UTAH. Dropping down on the western slope of the Rocky's we entered a thick, zombie apocalypse-like cloud that showed little sign of letting up. But as we turned south the clouds suddenly cleared and the red rocks of the canyon lands surrounded us. Just before sunset we pulled into Arches National Park and stopped at a few iconic outlooks. The views were fantastic.

Arches National Park

We spent the night at the cozy Cali Cochitta B&B trying to sleep off the jet lag. Homemade biscuits and frittata made by Carrie helped us get up quickly the next day, and we drove out to the Big Bend Boulders 15 minutes away.

Warming up on Leftover Lover (V0).

We gave ourselves about 4 hours to climb. The rock was fantastic! Beautifully fine, smooth red sandstone. Big Bend is known for having stiff grades (aka sandbagged) and we couldn't help but laugh when we found the hardest V4 in the world - Circus Trick. We had a great time playing around, but as snow clouds gathered we were encouraged to start our drive to the Grand Canyon.

a. prickly pear cactus. b. our ride. c. another sweet climb, maybe called Orange Peel? d. highway 191. e. cows.

GRAND CANYON, ARIZONA. We arrived at the east entrance of Grand Canyon National Park after dark. Yet, we still stopped at multiple overlooks and tried using the bright moon to catch a glimpse of the canyon's depth. This wasn't our most successful idea, but maybe that was for the best. Because the next morning we woke up, drove back into the park, and then BAM! there it was.

View from South Kaibab Trail

The Grand Canyon in the winter is magical. The sun was shining, snow covered the forest floor, and there were hardly any other people. Off-season tourism is the best kind of tourism. We took a short hike, drove to every look out we could find and felt like we had the place to ourselves. And then we got in the car again, on our way to Las Vegas!

a. juniper berries. b. Robin's first coyote. c. pack mule. d. another canyon view.

LAS VEGAS, NEVADA. This was the third day of driving more than 5 hours. Robin pointed out that we could have driven from our home in the Netherlands to Paris three times already (just 9 more trips to Paris before we would be in Seattle). Luckily, Red Rocks - just a short drive from the center of Vegas - was our first real bouldering stop and we planned to spend 5 nights there.

Red Rocks State Park

Red Rocks State Park is beautiful. As you crest the hill into the park, you are welcomed by a rainbow embedded in the mountains. With the brightest stripe being the bright red sand stone. We spent most of our time at the Kraft boulders, where the hikes aren't long, there are lots of problems in both my range and Robin's, and in the middle of the week it was pretty quiet.

Robin securing the final crux move on Americana Exotica (V10)

This visit was all about bouldering. Using the wonderfully put together Southern Nevada Bouldering guidebook we climbed as many classics in 4 days as we could. There is so much to explore in this area though, we need to come back.

a. An ultimate classic - Monkey Bar Direct (V8). b. Jones'n (V4). c. Sorange (V3). d. view of Vegas from the park. e. sunshine for days. f. sorking my crux move on The Pearl (V5). g. Money Wrench (V7).

Okay, not everything was climbing. We used our one rest day to visit the Strip for a few hours. Highlights - the Bellagio lobby and watching Robin lose $60 in 3 minutes. Low - watching Robin lose $60 in 3 minutes. Then, after five days in Las Vegas, it was time to head to Bishop, CA.

a. We love Paris. b. the only appropriate way to photograph Vegas is from this angle. c. 'Merica d. a desolate desert. e. Highway 95

BISHOP, CALIFORNIA. We arrived to Bishop late in the night so in the morning we were surprised by the beautiful surrounding mountains. We headed directly to the Buttermilks- the most famous bouldering section.

The Buttermilks

Well the view is impressive, to say the least. Otherwise this is definitely not a destination to visit quickly. The rock is too sharp, the technique too unique, and for me, everything was too high. The first day was rough.

Beautifully sharp.

The second day, we took a rest day - a good idea for our skin and bodies. We went in search of and, after a few hours, successfully found a set of 'secret' hot springs. We also upgraded to a super comfy Airbnb with the sweetest hosts- Charles and Diego. On our third day, when we went out to the Happy boulders we were much better rested. The Happys were fun and the sun was shining- a great day for bouldering. We also randomly ran into a friend from our home gym in Utrecht; making us appreciate the smallness of the bouldering community.

a. Wildlife! Robin's first deer sighting. b. found some not-so-secret hot springs. c. sending Solarium (V4) d. peering up over the edge from the Happys. e. projecting Stained Glass (V10).

DEATH VALLEY, CALIFORNIA. On our third day we woke up to rain and presumably snow in the mountains. This gave us the incentive to get on the road and head for the coast. We'd had enough with clouds and climbing, we wanted sunshine and surf. On our way to the coast we took a bit of a detour to check out the western side of Death Valley.

Death Valley National Park

What an amazingly desolate place. I can't even imagine how hopeless it must feel here in the summer when temperature reach over 120F.

a. a joshua tree b. desert views c. leaving death valley d. Panamint Valley Road

BIG SUR, CALIFORNIA. And finally we said goodbye to the mountains and the desert, and reached the California coast.

Big Sur

We started the drive up Highway 1 in Cambria. There had been quite a bit of rain in the previous weeks and our host warned us of road closures and mud slides. But the rain clouds lifted as we started the drive north and we were so lucky to have a mostly sunny drive all the way up to Monterey.

Bixby Bridge.

The Big Sur drive is fantastic. We began the morning at a giant Elephant Seal colony at Piedras Blancas. As expected, they were loud and smelly and fat. Later, we hiked down to see one of California's only coastal waterfalls, and also found a few other unnamed trails that brought us closer to the rocky shores. On the 100 mile drive we probably stopped over 50 times - each lookout was unique and deserved a flurry of photos.

a. Elephant seal at Piedras Blancas. b. beautiful views the whole drive. c. Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park. d. hidden unnamed cove.

SANTA CRUZ, CALIFORNIA. By the time we got to Monterey we realized we had miscounted the days and had an extra day before our room was available in Santa Cruz. Since the weather was nice, we went in search of the bouldering at Castle Rock, in the hills above Santa Cruz.

Santa Cruz

At Castle Rock we found cute sandstone egg-like boulders. It reminded us of our home bouldering in Fontainebleau, France. The weather was dry, freezing and windy- perfect bouldering conditions. We made quick work of a fewt fun classics in the area and THEN finally headed down into Santa Cruz.

Robin's first surf day in America

On the first morning, it was pouring rain. Surfer like, instead of rushing, we enjoyed a lazy morning and when the rain began to let up we set out to find Robin a surf board and a thick wetsuit. The Pacific Ocean is cold in the winter. The swell wasn't big, but good enough. And when the sun came out Robin ended up staying more than 2 hours at Pleasure Point. A 'sweet day' as he says.

a. sunset at Pleasure Point b. The Slap (V4), classic sandstone slopers. c. Robin quickly sent Eco-terrorist (V10) d. drying out after a sweet surf session

SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA. We continued our trip north on Hwy 1 and stopped at Mavericks- a beach with infamous big waves. Unfortunately, we were one day too early and apparently missed the biggest waves in years! When we stopped by the water was almost flat.

Golden Gate Bridge

Due to some misplaced luggage, when we finally reached San Francisco we didn't have much time to explore the downtown and were pretty kaput.

Golden Gate Park

Instead we used our time to walk around Golden Gate Park and eat a few delicious meals around the Sunset neighborhood. Outerlands for lunch- super tasty and cozy. A fancy date night at Aziza- a Moroccan themed dinner. And on our way out of town the most hipster of hipster breakfasts at Cibo in Sausalito: avocado+ricotta+toast = <3.

a. Pigeon Point Lighthouse b. in search of big waves at Mavericks. c. Mavericks Beach d. endless coastline

THE RED WOODS. Robin and I are not city people, and more importantly Robin can't really drive in American cities. We were both happy to leave the traffic and stop signs of San Francisco behind and head north into the Redwoods.

Avenue of the Giants

As suggested by our trusty Lonely Planet of the Western United States (yes, we had a guide book to my own country, and yes Robin was right to bring it along- it was incredibly helpful), we stopped at Humboldt Redwoods State Park and drove the 30+ miles along the Avenue of the Giants.

Humboldt Redwoods State Park

We took a few quiet, calming walks between enormous trees (and definitely a few LOTR Ents). By the time we had to get back in the car we were almost too relaxed to drive.

a. where the trees are almost too big to hug. b. too tall to see the top of. c. contain every shade of green imaginable d. and views of the sky are rare.
Roosevelt elk heard, Prairie Redwoods State Park, CA

THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST. As we crossed out of California into the Pacific Northwest (PNW) we immediately noticed a change in the coastline. Gone was the picturesque bright blues and greens of the Big Sur. Instead the Hollywood beauty had been replaced with harsh winds, swirling white wash waves and ominous forest lined cliffs.

The Pacific Northwest

The winter is perhaps not the best time to visit the PNW. Deterred by the high winds and cold temperatures, we have noticeably fewer photos of the Oregon and Washington coasts. Yet is was all so beautiful and well worth the slower drive along the coast.

a . Cape Kiwanda, OR. b. More wildlife! c. Washington sand is not warm and welcoming, but dark and cold. d. driftwood covers all the beaches. e. tsunami zone: the dangers of living along the Ring of Fire.

LA PUSH, WASHINGTON. Finally we arrived to Kelly's home state. First we had a weekend getaway with the Ramirez ladies in the Quileute Indian Reservation. The Oceanside Resort was cozy and had a beautiful view of the beach. We ate, took walks, played games and ate some more. Robin did very well amidst the Ramirez chaos (including 4 dogs!) and a mostly vegan menu.

a. Ramirez ladies. b. R + K = <3

FRIDAY HARBOR, WA. But Washington wasn't just for family time. There are also ORCAS! We went up to the San Juan Islands to try to catch a glimpse. There are four Orca pods that are seen very frequently- three of these pods actually live in the Puget Sound most of the summer.

Orcas in the San Juans

The winter is different. There hadn't been an Orca sighting in 20 days- which is pretty normal. But we weren't deterred. We made a reservation with Jeff of Maya's Legacy Whale Watching. He wasn't optimistic about spotting Orcas, but as the weather forecast predicted sunshine he was up for a nice day out on the water.

a. Ferry ride to Friday Harbor. b. sunset at Lime Kiln Point State Park. c. the harbor. d. Westside Preserve e. Lime Kiln lighthouse

Our guide, Jeff, said we'd won the lottery. Against the odds of winter, the sun was out, the water was flat, and there were Orcas! Two hours before our scheduled departure Jeff called to ask if we could come early, whales had been spotted. We boarded the small boat which instead of the planned three passengers, now had seven. Including Jeanie, a naturalist who educated us about the Orcas and the Puget Sound. We spent a magical 3+ hours following the transient orcas (T-Pod) around the San Juan Islands.

Mt Baker makes a perfect backdrop for watching orcas.

SEATTLE, WASHINGTON. We said goodbye to the Orcas and the summer-like weather and headed back down towards Seattle. After a few relaxing rainy days hanging around my small home town of Duvall, we took a day trip into Seattle.

View from Kerry Park
a. Seattle Art Museum. b. hello sunshine. c. First St. d. view from the Colombia Tower. e. on a walk through the city. f. Pike Place Market. g. iconic Space Needle.

And suddenly, it seemed, the trip was over. We jammed our clothes and souvenirs into our bags, packed a lunch full of mom's yummy baked goods and flew back to Europe.

See ya later America!

What an awesome, unforgettable trip. Thanks to family, friends and all the airbnb hosts for taking time to meet up and help us out along the way.

Sunny Schiphol welcomed us home

BOULDERING SUMMARY:

A few of Robin's favorite boulders: Moon Arete (V10); Circus Trick (V4/7); Big Huck (V7); Americana Exotica (V10); Taurine (V9); Bitch Slap 5 (V9); Timmy's Problem (V9); Spitting Venom (V9); Monkey Bar Direct (V8); Monkey Wrench (V7); Iron Fly (V9); Seven Spanish Angels (V6); The Hulk (V6); Eco-terrorist (V10).

A few of Kelly's favorite boulders: Slots of Fun (V2); Orange Peel (V1); Jones'n (V4); Sorange (V3); Monkey Bar (V2); Potato Chips (V2); Solarium (V4); Slap Happy (V3); The Slap (V3); Bates Problem (V6).

Favorites

  • Best bouldering for lots of days: Red Rocks, NV
  • Best bouldering for one day: Big Bend, Moab, UT
  • Best cheap crash pad: Metolius
  • Best shoes: Vans SK8-HI MTE (from Iceland to the desert to the PNW they were awesome)
  • Best outdoor store: Eastside Sports, Bishop, CA
  • Best surf shop: Freeline, Santa Cruz, CA
  • Best place to stay: Airbnb was amazing for this trip
  • Best fancy restaurant dinner: Aziza, San Francisco, CA
  • Best medium-fancy dinner: Snaps, Reykjavik
  • Best low-fancy food (and groceries): Trader Joes
  • Best dessert: Ellenos, Seattle
  • Best view: Grand Canyon, AZ
  • Best tourist activity: Orcas with Maya's Legacy Whale watching
Photos by RD and KS. Written by KS.
Created By
Kelly Sierra
Appreciate
Robin Donders; Kelly Sierra

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