ABOVE: Bo Weiss reaches for the 15-point hold on her first route. She was competing at Divisionals in Bloomington, Minnesota, which is the second stop on the way to Nationals for bouldering competitive climbing. Bouldering is a form of climbing on shorter walls with no ropes or harness, just mats to catch climbers if or when they fall.
Catherine Garton, a member of Planet Rock Climbing Team, looks at her second problem (or route) before getting on the wall. She “mapped” the route - climber slang for planning the movements and the sequence of holds to use. This is where it starts: climbers have four minutes to climb a route they’ve never seen before, and usually map it before getting on the wall. Time is dictated by large clocks which are usually visible from each problem. The start of the four minutes is announced by a loud female robotic voice, similar to Siri, which says “Climbers. You may begin climbing now.” Garton, who had been standing with her back to the route, turned around when she heard the voice and got her first look at the climb. Catherine Garton tries to figure out her second route; she had fallen and is now planning what to try next. There is a small separation between the spectators and the climbers of about 10 feet, but nothing that protects climbers from the sighs or cheers of a crowd.
Hobbs Kessler, a member of Planet Rock Climbing Team and freshman at Community, figuring out the beta (climber slang for how to do the route) as he attempts his first problem. The judge watches to see which hold he gets to. Kessler placed first in his age category, which is Male Youth B, on both days, and will be going to Nationals. His younger sister placed first in her category as well.
Catherine Garton attempts of her third problem on the first day. Garton has been competitive climbing for around three years. She had placed sixth, and would be going to Nationals, but due to a scoring error she was unable to go once a competitor below her moved up in the scoring.
Garton is a freshman at the University of Michigan. This is her last year of competition.
Spectators watch as a Female Youth B climber sizes up her final route. Divisionals was at a Vertical Endeavors climbing gym in Bloomington Minnesota, and at some spots viewing was cramped. On the second day, to watch the third and final routes of many age categories, spectators had to pack into a small area-roped off on one side with a wall on the other-to watch the climbers compete. Coaches, parents, siblings, and team members could be seen in the crowd; common cheers consisted of “You got this!” and “C’mon!” Cellphones and the click of cameras also be seen and heard.
Connor Kapayo, a member of the Chicago-based First Ascent Climbing Team, takes a second to reflect after falling off his first attempt. Although he tried it two more times, he did not end up sending the route. Kapayo placed first at Regionals and on the first day of Divisionals, but ended in 5th. He competes against his twin brother Spencer Kapayo at every competition; at this competition Spencer ended up in 6th.
Catherine Garton is “in the chair” - as it’s called at competitions - as she waits to try her second route. For competitions, climbers have four minutes in the chair and then four minutes on the wall to try the route, with thirty seconds to transition in between. Before coming out to climb and sit in the chair, climbers wait in a curtained off section of the gym called Isolation-or “Iso”-where they can warm up, eat snacks, and talk with teammates and coaches before leaving Isolation at their assigned time. When climbers are in the chair between climbs, they are technically still in Iso, but crowd noises can still be heard. The cheers or sighs of a crowd are very audible and can help climbers figure out if the competitor before them has sent or fallen, but can also add additional stress.
Maggie Hammer, a sophomore at Community and member of Planet Rock Climbing Team, reaches around the volume - the large grey bulbous hold is this type of hold - as she goes for the 15-point hold. This was her second attempt on this route, which was her second of the day. Hammer was one of only two people to send this route, and placed first. Climbing is a family affair: both of her brothers placed third at this competition and will be going to Nationals with her as well.
Want to learn more about competitive climbing? Check out below.
If you want to try indoor climbing in a non-competitive setting, Planet Rock in Ann Arbor is a local, fun option.