Andalusia is the large Spanish autonomous region of hills, rivers and farmland bordering Spain's southern coast. Its name is derived from "Al-Andalus", the former muslim-ruled empire that covered all of the Iberian peninsula and beyond. Today's Andalusia is only a small part of what Al-Andalus used to be, however, the legacy still shows strongly in many aspects of life and most prominently in architecture.
In spring of 2022, I indulged in a photographer’s retreat in this marvelous region. What a treat this was! So many new sights to take in, the warm Spanish culture, the professional stimulation among peers.... on top of all this, we were spoiled by a private chef in a beautiful country estate; a top-notch wine selection included.
Arriving in Andalusia, the first thing you notice is the unique quality of light. Even in spring, the light seems harsh and you need to train your eyes to it. Given the long daylight hours, softer light can only be found very early morning or very late in the evening. Eating dinner after an evening shoot puts you dangerously close to midnight. To ensure enough rest - after all this was billed as a retreat - our shooting schedule accommodated sleeping in to a late breakfast, looking for contrasty images during the day, and landscapes in the evening, followed by dinner and wine. Rinse and repeat - a life well-lived.
Most people are familiar with the coastal areas of Malaga and Marbella, or the famous architecture of Granada and Seville. The pastoral hinterland offers a different perspective. As you move inland, you encounter rugged landscapes, rolling hills, fields of wheat and barley, and large olive plantations.
You see many quaint villages nestled amidst the "diagonal lines" of olive groves. Other villages sit on high perches, on top of mountains. Built strategically on the highest elevations, most still have ancient Moorish fortification in place. Every bit of space is used and the houses sit literally on top of each other.
Imagine living under a rock! Setenil de las Bodegas does just that. Many of the houses here are built directly into the surrounding cliffs and rock formations - nature and architecture intertwined in an amazing way.
As you get closer to midday, the strong sunlight creates sharp contrasts and deep shadows, giving the surroundings a dramatic and dynamic feel. The harsh light adds to the region's character and can be both challenging and alluring for photographers and artists trying to capture its essence.
Visiting the white villages, the "Pueblos Blancos", you quickly get the impression of a permanent siesta. There is hardly anyone out in the streets - two old men in front of the barber shop, older women carrying groceries, some stray dogs - not exactly a bustling communal life.
The sad fact is that, despite its picturesque beauty, rural Andalusia has seen an exodus of young people and its villages are now considered ghost towns. The younger generation moves to metropolitan areas in search of employment and entertainment. What is left behind are crumbling structures and the elderly holding up their traditions.
By sunset (and sunrise), the light feels softer, casting a golden glow over the countryside. It is a serene and picturesque setting, perfect for immersing yourself in the authentic charme of rural Andalusia.
The whole hinterland is ideal for long hikes or bike rides. Undulating fields create a mesmerizing landscape, with their waves of green and golden crops swaying in the breeze. Poppies and wildflowers are abundant, and occasionally you come across the highly esteemed "pata negra" - the black Iberian pig giving the prized and most delicious pata negra ham.
Andalusian cuisine is a tantalizing array of dishes drawing from a mix of Moorish, Mediterranean, and Spanish culinary traditions. Olive oil, garlic, peppers, tomatoes and potatoes are staples in many dishes, while almonds, oranges, and spices add depth and complexity. Our chef would scour the local markets every morning to find the freshest ingredients for her gourmet meals.
Besides grande landscape vista, I also enjoyed the closer views - oak and olive trees for example, as I am always drawn to trees. Majestic cork oaks, with their thick, rugged bark, dot the countryside. Skilled workers carefully strip the bark from the trees in every ten years intervalls without harming them. Next time you uncork a lovely bottle of delicious Spanish wine, appreciate this piece of a tree's life. Recently striped trees do look like they just lost their pants.
Olive trees are an iconic symbol of Andalusia, having shaped its landscape and economy for centuries. The gnarled trunks, some hundreds of years old, stand as silent sentinels, bearing witness to the passage of time and the rich history of the land. I could never get enough of them.
After so much praise for Andalusia, a word of caution needs to be said about the ongoing water shortage. The region has been enduring drought conditions for six years, with the 2022-2023 hydrological year marking one of the driest periods. At the beginning of 2024, Andalusia's reservoirs are operating at just 21% of their capacity, signaling an unprecedented water crisis with no end in sight.
Combined with a steady rise in temperatures, the lack of water reduces the economic output of the region as more and more water taps are being shut off. Agriculture is the main industry and it fully depends on an abundance of water. So do all the humans and millions of tourists visiting. Water transfers, desalination plants, and water re-use projects, show some potential but the easy-going is over for everyone. Here, like everywhere else in the world, climate change is a pressing issue. Efforts to reduce greenhouse gas emissions, increase energy efficiency, and to promote renewable energy sources are underway but they might be too little and too late.
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A big shout-out goes to the organizers of this retreat, Rafael Rojas and gourmet chef Anka at EssentialSeeing. Their retreats are also suitable for non-photographers and I can highly recommend them.