An Overview
This bespoke journey has been designed to comfortably showcase one of the most spectacular landscapes to be found anywhere in Asia; the Fann Mountains of northwestern Tajikistan. Still relatively undiscovered, this remote range, with it's stark juxtaposition of rugged, snow-capped peaks and crystal-clear lakes, will provide the beautiful backdrop to this carefully-crafted adventure.
With 4 days on the trail, we will traverse the range from west to east, by first trekking up to Kulikalon Lake, and then, with our caravan of sturdy donkeys, crossing over Loudan Pass (at 3630m the highest point en route), before finally descending to the turquoise waters of Alauddin Lake. Based on a personal reconnaissance of the region in August 2023, the plan is to spend a couple of nights 'glamping' at each of two carefully selected lakeside campsites, and use them as a base for further exploration. One enticing prospect for example is to trek up to two of the bluest, and most bewitching lakes of all, known locally as 'Dushokha' or 'Twin Horn Lakes', nestled at the base of a colossal wall of rock and ice.
The geography of the region, with the interlocking, jigsaw-like borders of the two countries (Uzbekistan and Tajikistan), also allows us to craft a wonderful cultural journey to include Samarkand, the ancient capital of Sogdiana, and Bukhara, perhaps our favourite way station of lore along the Old Silk Road, with it's myriad of minarets and bustling bazaars.
So what do we mean by a bespoke 'glamping' adventure? Well first of all, the route has been personally scouted (bar one or two interesting side-explorations), all equipment fully scrutinized, various boutique accommodations hand-picked, and an excellent working relationship established with Umed, our local guide. Last but not least, the donkeys have been vetted, an expedition dog recruited (apparently there are a few brown bears around, although I only saw their scats), and excellent coffee found. So you can expect roomy bell tents, comfortable inflatable beds, clean sheets, commodious shower and toilet tents, and fresh, tasty food prepared by our expedition cook; so yes camping, but with as many creature comforts as we can reasonably provide.
The adventure will be personally guided, and hosted, by Whistling Arrow's founder Adrian Bottomley, as well as Umed, our experienced local guide. We will use donkeys (not mules) to carry our main expedition duffel bags, and a trusted team will also help around camp, set up our tents, as well as prepare and cook our tasty meals. In short, you will just have to hike with your day packs, and while at camp, kick back, relax, and enjoy the spectacular surroundings.
On the trail, altitudes will range from approximately 2300m to a maximum of around 3600m. The Fann mountains are not particularly high (the highest peak in the range tops out at 5490m) so we do not anticipate any issues with altitude. As always though we will carry a comprehensive medical kit (including diamox) and a satellite phone. The route is moderately challenging, but with the right mindset, and a bit of preparation, it is well within the capability of most reasonably fit people.
The current group is currently six strong (including Adrian), and the fixed dates are June 21 to July 1. After one or two tweaks, the day-to-day plan has been confirmed as below (please note that there is still room for up to 2 or 3 more people if there is any additional interest before we depart):
The Day To Day Plan
June 21: Fly to Tashkent International Airport (TAS). We will be picked up from the airport and transferred to the Courtyard Marriot hotel (conveniently located for both the airport, and high speed train station). Depending on the various flight arrival times, we will all meet up at the hotel and have dinner.
June 22: After breakfast, we will catch the high-speed train to Bukhara (departing at 08.50) with its beautiful backstreets, bustling bazaars and historical monuments. Once in Bukhara we will visit the Ismail Somoni Mouseleum dating from the 10th century, Chashma Ayub Mausoleum, and Boloi Havuz Mosque. We will also arrange an audience with a master of miniature painting, Davlat Bronovich Toshev. Overnight at the Mercure hotel.
June 23: After breakfast today we will visit Ark Citadel, the original fortress of Bukhara dating back over two thousand years. After lunch, we can explore the Poikalon Complex that includes the Kalon Mosque and Minaret, and the Mir-i-Arab Madrassah with it's plaza teeming with merchants and local vendors. Next, we will call on Rahman, an embroidery expert, who is a 6th generation master of intricate stitch work, with many of his works exhibited in galleries around the world. Finally, we will also lunch in a private room and enjoy a local folklore performance with local musicians and dancers, before heading to the train station to catch the late afternoon train (departs 15.44) to Samarkand. Overnight in Samarkand at the Kosh Havuuz boutique hotel near Registan Square, and dinner at the rooftop restaurant.
June 24: Today we will explore Registan Square, before visiting the Gur-Emir mausoleum, where Timur (or Tamerlane) is buried and learn more about one of history's famous conquerors. Next, we will stroll through the spacious courtyard of the Bibi-Khanum Mosque, a structure that legend says was a gift to Tamerlane by one of his wives, before finally visiting the Shah-i Zinda, the family necropolis of the Timurid dynasty, which has the finest tilework of any site in Uzbekistan. Overnight once again in Samarkand at the Kosh Havuuz boutique hotel (so we will be staying two nights here).
June 25: After breakfast we will head east and visit the picturesque silk paper workshop of the Mukhtarov brothers, before driving onwards to the border with Tajikistan. Here, we will walk across the land border (a unique experience in itself), before journeying onwards to a comfortable mountain camp (where we will reserve the camp's simple but clean bungalows with attached bathroom). Once at the camp we can either rest and acclimatize, or embark on a short warm-up hike up to Chukurak Lake. Overnight in the mountain lodge (2850m).
June 26: The donkeys will arrive at the lodge in the morning to start transporting our gear up to Kulikalon Lake. We will follow them and begin our 4 day trekking and glamping adventure with a four-hour hike that follows a small river up through stunning scenery to reach the lakeshore. Here our first glamping site (and home for the next two nights) will have been set up in anticipation of our arrival. This will be our first night under 'comfortable canvas' (2900m).
June 27: Today we have a couple of choices. Either to embark on a circular hike from Kulikalon, and explore a ring of nearby lakes including Lesnoy, Kulisiyoh and Bibijanat, or a slightly tougher exploration of 'Dushokha'. Alternatively, you can also just relax, read, and admire the views from the campsite. In the evening we will have a bonfire, a BBQ, and perhaps even a dance and a sing song! This will be the second night under canvas (2900m).
June 28: After breakfast, we will begin the trek to our second glamping site and start the ascent of Loudan Pass. It is a fairly long climb but the panorama of the surrounding peaks and lakes from the top definitely makes it worthwhile. It is then a gentler descent to our home for the next two nights, a lovely spot by the shore of Alauddin Lake. Here we will spend our third night glamping (2800m).
June 29: Today we have two options, either to have a quieter day relaxing and exploring around the shore of Alauddin Lake, or to ascend up to Mutnoe Lake (3,520m), a hike which takes about four to five hours there and back. The views from the top are spectacular, with panoramic views in every direction. Return to our glamping site, and enjoy our final night under canvas (2800m).
June 30: It is time to leave the mountains and journey onwards to Khujand in northern Tajikistan; an ancient city with a history dating back to Alexander the Great. We will arrive in the afternoon, and check in to the best hotel in town (which is perfectly fine and clean). Dinner at an atmospheric local restaurant near the central park.
July 1: After breakfast, we will visit Khujand’s main market, the Panjshabe Bazaar, which is the largest market in Tajikistan, before having lunch at Anora, where we will experience the authentic atmosphere of a Tajiki house. After lunch, we will drive to the Uzbek border and then onwards to once again reach Tashkent, the capital of Uzbekistan and largest city in Central Asia. We will arrive in Tashkent by late afternoon; in time to have dinner and transfer to the airport to catch our evening flights out.
Finally, to get to the nitty gritty, the cost of the trip will be USD 5900 (or the HKD equivalent) per person excluding flights. As usual, to confirm bookings, we will require a 30% deposit, with the balance payable 30 days before the departure date.