Heritage, Herd, Horizon Harris Tweed Origins– Entanglements of Landscape, Labour, and Thread

These photographs illustrate the vital role that crofters, weavers, sheep, and the stunning landscape of Harris play in preserving the rich Hebridean heritage. By drawing connections between the subtleties of the landscape and the cloth, as well as the dedicated act of labour, it highlights the profound interconnectivity among these elements while capturing different facets of life on the Isle of Harris. Through powerful photographic documentation, it reveals the deep relationships between sheep and the people of Harris, showcasing how weavers and crofters transform the fabric of Harris Tweed into a true expression of identity, enriched by the naturally occurring elements of land and sea that enhance these connections.

As I traveled along the Golden Road, through the moorlands and the Machair of Harris, I witnessed breathtaking landscapes that arguably owe much of their beauty to the practice of crofting on the island. From the road itself to the cattle grazing and the houses dotting the hills, crofting plays an integral role in preserving not only the stunning scenery but also the diverse ecosystems found throughout the Outer Hebrides of Scotland.
In my explorations of the machair and moorlands in Harris, I recognised the integral role that sheep play within the Harris landscape. My passion for landscape photography drove me to document the region’s breathtaking vistas; however, upon reviewing my photographs, I frequently noted the presence of sheep, illustrating their deep-rooted connection to the land.
These photos aim to highlight the connections between the subtle features of the land in Harris and their relationship to Harris Tweed, a fabric deeply rooted in the region's crofting culture and economy. In the past, basic colours used for dyeing the fabric were derived from natural plants. For example, Crotal, a grey lichen scraped from rocks with an old spoon known as "Spain Chrotail," produced an orange colour. Meanwhile, Barr an Fhraoich (purple heather tips in season) contributed a lilac hue, a fabric that has significant connections to the crofting culture and the economy of Harris. Basic colours for dyeing fabric were derived from natural plants in earlier times. Crotal- a grey lichen scraped from rocks with an old spoon "Spain Chrotail", produced an orange colour. Barr an Fhraoich (Purple Heather Tips in season) produced a lilac colour.
The act of gathering, as articulated by multiple crofters during interviews, is fundamentally a communal endeavour. Their accounts of the gathering activities not only underscore the necessity of teamwork among crofters during the sheep-gathering process but also highlight the profound sense of community that emerges from such collaborative efforts. Through extensive observation of crofters during the sheep gathering and shearing sessions, I have noted that collective engagement in specific tasks fosters mutual understanding and connection among crofters, ultimately nurturing a strong sense of community. The communal aspect of gatherings provides crofters with a shared platform to express both their personal and collective identities. Additionally, the moorlands serve as a communal area where the sensory and social effort involved in gathering links the activity to cultural significance.
Crofters place the well-being of their sheep at the forefront of their practices, shearing their flocks not for profit, but to safeguard against problems such as flystrike, particularly in the case of the less valuable black-faced sheep. These evocative photographs capture the shearing process, illustrating the harmonious blend of hard work and compassionate care that defines crofting life. They reveal the deep bond shared between crofters and their sheep, as well as the journey from fleece to fabric, with the wool ultimately transformed into the iconic Harris Tweed. It’s worth noting that only the finest virgin wool is selected for crafting this renowned textile, ensuring each piece carries with it the rich heritage of the land and its inhabitants.
Scott Bennet, an 83-year-old crofter and skilled Harris Tweed weaver, represents the older generation of the island and its impact on the local crofting community. In a memorable photograph, he wears the suit he handcrafted from Harris Tweed for his 50th wedding anniversary, skillfully woven in his loomshed. Harris Tweed can only be woven on a croft, emphasising the strong connection between crofters and this iconic fabric. The accompanying images capture the act of weaving, from the initial work to the finished products: Scott's suit and the bagpipes. These photographs highlight how Harris Tweed serves as an important way for the crofting culture on Harris to express itself, as well as how it reflects the personal experiences of the island’s crofters.

Credits:

Raoul-Ross D'souza