Reviving the Roots: Vision and Commitment Spark Grain Economy Renaissance in Maine

Sodexo's Maine Course Initiative and Maine Grains: Boosting Local Economy and Sustainability in Maine

Sodexo's Maine Course initiative with the University of Maine Systems defines "local" food as sourced within 175 miles of any campus. This approach boosts the local economy by creating jobs and reinvesting in the community while also ensuring that about 25% of the food purchased for UMS campuses travels less than 175 miles, a significant step in reducing our environmental impact.

Maine Grains, a small grain producer in Skowhegan, ME, is vitally involved in reviving the local grain economy. Housed in a five-story, old Victorian jail that now serves as a gristmill, it is 90 miles from USM's Portland campus, 100 miles from Gorham, and 65 miles from Lewiston-Auburn.

From the mid-19th century to the early 20th century, Maine was considered the bread basket of the Northeast, with gristmills dotting its landscape. These mills harnessed the power of the state's abundant rivers and streams to grind grain for local communities, becoming integral to the region's agricultural economy.

Enough grain was grown and milled in Somerset County to feed 100,00 people.

The surplus of Maine grains helped to support Union troops during the Civil War.

However, with the rise of industrialization, rail service, and the Erie Canal, the grain economy shifted to the Midwest due to its more favorable weather and landscape. Mass production and roller mills replaced stone grinding, prioritizing shelf stability over nutrition. By the mid-20th century, New England's grain infrastructure, including mills and storage, had disappeared.

But in the 1990s, the local food movement reignited interest in local grains. In 2007, a grassroots group of individuals in Maine got together, forming the Maine Grain Alliance and starting the Kneading Conference, an annual event bringing together grain farmers, millers, bakers, and oven builders, all working towards promoting a local grain economy. The group was very cognizant of Maine's lack of local grains and hoped to inspire.

Amber Lambke and business partner Michael Scholz were inspired. They saw a need for locally produced flour. In 2009, they purchased the old Skowhegan jailhouse, retrofitting the Victorian jailhouse into what is now known as the Somerset Gristmill, to provide Central Maine with a mill to serve Maine's grain farmers, helping to fulfill the demand for local grains. The mill's opening in 2012 marked a significant step in reviving Maine's 'bread basket" roots.

Maine Grains encouraged farmers to plant heritage grains like wheat, oats, rye, spelt, corn, buckwheat, and barley. Maine has become the largest grower of grains in the Northeast. Maine Grain's suppliers must avoid chemical pesticides or fertilizers, ensuring high-quality, sustainable products. Maine Grains is certified organic by the Maine Organic Farmers and Gardeners Association.

This effort created a thriving local grain market. The mill now works with 45 farms to supply bakeries, breweries, restaurants, and stores across the Northeast.

Wheat is often called the "Staff of Life" and is central to our diet. More foods are made from it than any other cereal grain.

Using modern equipment, Maine Grains uses traditional stone milling techniques.

Large Austrian stones turn slowly to grind grain at low temperatures, preserving the grain's nutritional value and taste. Lambke traveled to Canada and Denmark to learn traditional stone milling, as the art was dying in the United States.

Previously, grains were used as cover crops, and had little market value. Maine Grains forgoes commodity pricing, ensuring farmers receive fair compensation for their goods. This approach fosters an economically sustainable relationship between the mill and farmers, promoting local agriculture and supporting the community by providing stable, fair income for producers.

Maine has become the largest grower of grains in the Northeast. In addition to campus dining halls, Maine Grains' grains and pulses can be found in Natural Food Stores, Hannaford, and Whole Foods. They can also be purchased online directly from Maine Grains.

Where to buy

The Maine Course's institutional commitment to purchasing local grains supports the resurgence of the Maine grain economy.

The Maine Course commits to doubling local Maine grain offerings and boosting local grain purchases by 50%. Maine Grains will feature in recipes at least three times per week.

Daily scratch-baked cookies are found in dining halls using local grains. 100% of oats used are locally sourced.

In their dining halls, students and faculty at University of Maine System campuses can choose from baked goods made with local Maine grains...

...or a delicious salad made from Maine grains or pulses.

MAINE COURSE MAKING A POSITIVE IMPACT

Maine Grains

Maine Grain Alliance

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