Day 2 - May 26 We woke up to almost perfect conditions in front of the Smeerenburg glacier, with stunning reflection. Our day took us out through the fjord in the Northwestern corner where we found thousands of Little Auks flying around. In the afternoon in Woodfjorden we found a Polar Bear on a Walrus carcass next to the beach. Even with the 500m distance rule, the bear in the landscape gave us some beautiful photos and a really nice first meeting with the King of the Arctic. Little later we got to enjoy 2 beautiful Walruses on ice before we sailed out of Woodfjorden.
Day 3 - May 27 This morning we woke up deep into Hinlopen, with calm reflective water and lots and lots of sea ice. We had some amazing photo opportunities of walruses on ice. As we were scouting the fjords of wildlife throughout the day the weather slowly improved and during the evening we arrived Alkefjellet, the famous bird cliff, where we had a bit of wind and waves. Lots of sea ice had drifted towards the cliffside so we couldn’t get all the way in. However, we had some great photo opportunities and encounters with Brünnich's guillemots on sea ice. We went into Wahlenbergfjorden for the night and anchored close to the sea ice. During the night we watched a Polar bear far away on the ice.
Day 4 - May 28 The polar bear we had seen last night was now up walking, but unfortunately further away into the fjord. We decided to sail further north, and as we approached the 7 Islands (Sjuøyene) we encounter more and more Walruses on the drifting sea ice. Many females were nursing on the ice and from a safe distance we got some unique photos of a mom and calf. Also two males walruses with long tusks were posing for our cameras. We pushed as deep into the pack ice as we could, before we shut down the engine to see what the night would bring.
Day 5 & 6 - May 29 - 30 OUTSTANDING - A Polar bear was spotted 5-6 km away in the pack ice and luckily for us it had direction directly to MS Virgo. Without any hesitation the bear walked straight up to us and started to explore the ship from a distance. A breathtaking experience and stunning photo opportunity for a Polar bear in the pack ice! After the encounter we started to move back out of the ice which took us all day, but spotted 3 more Polar bears in the pack ice at a larger distance.
Deep within the heart of the pack ice. The world falls quiet, save for the whisper of the wind and the haunting crackle of shifting ice all around us. In that stillness, a primal feeling takes hold—you sense eyes in the distance, a presence just beyond sight. Out here, you never know what might emerge from the frozen silence.
After traveling down from the pack ice we enjoyed the stunning view in Holmiabukta and Fuglefjorden before we went to Virgohamna for a late evening zodiac trip, only few Harbour Seals were home, but lots of shorebirds were found in the calm bay. The weather was slowly picking up and we started the travel south to Kongsfjorden.
Day 7 - May 31 We traveled south to Kongsfjorden over night and arrived Kongsbreen just after breakfast. We had great landscape photo opportunities with stunning icebergs of crystal blue ice and a very dynamic glacier front. We spent a few hours cruising in between the icebergs with MS Virgo, photographing birds flying in front of the beautiful ice. During the afternoon we did a glacier cruise in front of Lilliehöökbreen where we experience some big calvings. After dinner we went for a zodiac cruise in Fjortende Julibukta where we had a beautiful evening with puffins.
Late May to early June in Svalbard is one of my favourite times. A beautiful transition time. The mountains are still draped in snow and ice, creating a stunning backdrop for the rich wildlife that fills the landscape. Migratory birds have returned in full chorus, walruses are giving birth, and seals rest on the ice floes. Polar bears patrol the coastlines of the archipelago, a powerful experience even with new regulations in place, overall an untamed Arctic. As the pack ice slowly retreats northward, it opens up a rare chance to venture into its heart — where the silence is broken only by the wind and the possibility of encountering polar bears in their icy realm.
Let us know if you want to travel with us on a similar photo expedition to Svalbard.
Text & photo: Jonas Beyer
Medvirkende:
Jonas Beyer