Cosmetic Raw Materials Skincare

"Raw materials are building blocks of formulation"

What is Cosmetic Science?

Cosmetic science is the study of the effects that raw materials and mixtures can have on parts of the human body like hair, skin, lips and nails.

• Formulation
• Product Development
• Research

What is a Cosmetic?

USA: Articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body...for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance.

Canada: Any substance or mixture of substances manufactured, sold or represented for use in cleansing, improving or altering the complexion, skin, hair or teeth, and includes deodorants and perfumes.

EU: Any substance or preparation intended to be placed in contact with the various external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance and/or correcting body odours and/or protecting them or keeping them in good condition

A cosmetic ingredient is a raw material that is of natural or synthetic origins. These materials are used together in mixtures to create various cosmetic emulsions and blends.

Cosmetic Ingredients can come as oils, powders, aqueous mixtures, gases and pure liquids.

Why Use Cosmetic Ingredients

We wouldn’t have a product without the ingredients. Cosmetic Ingredients have a job to do in the formulation. Formulation structure is important for ingredients to function in the best way possible.

Enhance Physical Properties of the Product

Texture/ Viscosity/Slip/ Spread ability/ Warm/Cool

Hydration vs Moisturization

Impart Color (on the body and in formula)

Provide fragrance

How are Cosmetic Ingredients Made?

Natural ingredients are natural resources, they are obtained through agriculture or are by-products of agriculture. This can be from farms, Marine sources, wild harvesting

It is the skins, kernels, nuts, seeds or pulp of plants/fruits/vegetables that are proceed into oils and extracts.

Many cosmetic ingredients are synthesis in labs. Some ingredients are bio based, meaning their foundations are natural then they are chemically processed into new forms.

Natural Vs Synthetic

Definitions of natural and synthetic

REACH defines natural as a naturally occurring substance as such, unprocessed or processed only by:

• manual, mechanical or gravitational means;
• dissolution in water;
• flotation;
• extraction with water;
• steam distillation or heating solely to remove water;
• or which is extracted from air by any means.

A synthetic ingredient is a substance that does not occur in nature. An ingredient, such as a botanical extract, can be a mixture of substances that occur in nature and substances that do not occur in nature.

Canada has no official definition of natural personal care products or ingredients.

INCI

INCI names (International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient) are systematic names internationally recognized to identify cosmetic ingredients. They are developed by the International Nomenclature Committee (INC) and published by the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, available electronically as wINCI.

Example: Beeswax (cera alba), Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Rosa Rugosa (Rosehip) Seed Oil, Rosa Canina (Rosehip) Petal Flower Powder, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Tocepherol (Vitamin E)

Esters

An ester is a compound formed from the condensation reaction that occurs when a carboxylic acid and an alcohol combine. The exact combination of the type of alcohol and the type of carboxylic acid will determine which ester is produced.

The stearate esters (Butyl Stearate, Cetyl Stearate, Isocetyl Stearate, Isopropyl Stearate, Myristyl Stearate, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Isobutyl Stearate) are oily liquids or waxy solids.

Emollient: Esters can be extremely beneficial to skin. They are emollients, meaning they hydrate, soften and smooth the surface of skin. Lotions and creams intended to improve the texture of skin rely on emollients as their active ingredients. Unlike other types of emollients, esters don’t leave an oily residue on the skin, which gives them a special advantage.

Solvent: Esters can also function as a solvent. Solvents dissolve ingredients so they can mix together and work properly. Many personal care products, including powders, lotions and shaving creams, contain solvents to achieve the proper consistency.

Thickening agent: Esters also function as thickening agents in cosmetics. Thickeners enhance the consistency, viscosity and volume of lotions, creams, conditioners and other personal care products.

Surfactant: As discussed above, surfactants allow liquids that would otherwise remain separate from one another to mix and remain in suspension. Many personal care products contain both lipids and water, so these products need an emulsifier to stabilize the mixture.

Fragrance: Esters are popular among perfumers and personal care product manufacturers for their naturally pleasant scents. For example, Propyl Ethonoate smells like fresh pears, Pentyl Nonoate smells like roses, and Propyl Octanoate smells like coconut.

Waxes

Waxes are complex mixtures of alcohols, fatty acids and esters. Waxes are esters of long chain fatty acids and long chain alcohols.They are harder, less greasy and more brittle than fats, and are very resistant to moisture, oxidation and microbial degradation.

Surfactant

Surfactants are compounds that lower the surface tension (or interfacial tension) between two liquids, between a gas and a liquid, or between a liquid and a solid. Surfactants may act as detergents, wetting agents, emulsifiers, foaming agents, and dispersants.

Butters

Butters are a class of materials that have a melting point between 20-40.5oC. Below 20oC, the products are classified as oils, and those having a melting point over 40.5oC are fats. . Some natural products are butters and have the proper melting point. These include shea, mango and coco butter.

Oils

Natural oils are pure plant oils extracted from the seeds, nuts, kernels or the flesh of vegetables and fruits. They are also known as fixed oils and carrier oils. Fixed oils leave an oily residue on kitchen or blotting paper. It’s a term used to differentiate vegetable oils from essential oils which are volatile and won’t leave a stain behind unless they have residual colour in them.

Silicones

• Dimethicone
• Cyclomethicone
• Cyclohexasiloxane
• Cetearyl methicone
• Cyclopentasiloxane

The function of silicone in skin care depends on the type of silicone. Some have a skin-smoothing, emollient effect; others form a water-resistant film or improve a product’s ability to spread. Some serve as carrier fluids to deliver an even layer of ingredients and then the silicone evaporates, leaving behind a weightless yet silky finish

Humectants

Humectants describe ingredients that draw in and retain moisture. There are a variety of humectants some of them are commonly known ingredients like honey, other ingredients are synthesized from plants and other sources to create ingredients like glycerin, hyaluronic acid, propylene glycol, and more.

Actives

Active ingredients are is a term that is used borrowed from Over the Counter drugs (OTC). It is used to describe the active ingredients in formulas that make the product work.

They can be powders, liquids, naturals, synthetic. They are often hero ingredients and used heavily in marketing. The reality is that every single ingredient has a purpose in a formula.

Preservatives

Cosmetic Preservative is a substance that is added to products such as foods, cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, paints, biological samples, wood, beverages etc. to prevent decomposition by microbial growth or by undesirable chemical changes.

Parabens are a family of related chemicals that are commonly used as preservatives in cosmetic products. Preservatives may be used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria and mold, in order to protect both the products and consumers.

The parabens used most commonly in cosmetics are methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, and ethylparaben.

Product ingredient labels typically list more than one paraben in a product, and parabens are often used in combination with other types of preservatives to better protect against a broad range of microorganisms.

Phenoxyethanol is a preservative used in many cosmetics and personal care products. You may have a cabinet full of products containing this ingredient in your home, whether you know it or not. Chemically, phenoxyethanol is known as a glycol ether, or in other words, a solvent

Raw Materials and GMO's

Sustainability

Sustainable and Green practices as defined by the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency).

Sustainability is based on a simple principle: Everything that we need for our survival and well-being depends, either directly or indirectly, on our natural environment. Sustainability creates and maintains the conditions under which humans and nature can exist in productive harmony, that permit fulfilling the social, economic and other requirements of present and future generations. Sustainability has emerged as a result of significant concerns about the unintended social, environmental, and economic consequences of rapid population growth, economic growth and consumption of our natural resources.

Ingredient Trends 2023

• Clean Beauty
• Green Chemistry
• Menopausal Skin Care
• Skin Care Barrier Repair

Ingredient Trends 2025

• Performance Driven Results
• Traceable
• Marine Derived
• Exosomes Botanical Extracts

Tips To Working With Suppliers

Working with cosmetic ingredient suppliers can be a complex and challenging task, but it is essential for ensuring the quality and safety of your products. Here are some tips to help you work effectively with cosmetic ingredient suppliers:

Research and choose reputable suppliers: Before working with any supplier, make sure to research their background, reputation, and customer reviews. Look for suppliers who have a good track record of delivering high-quality ingredients and have a strong reputation in the industry.

Establish clear communication channels: Communication is key when working with suppliers. Make sure to establish clear channels of communication and set expectations for response times and methods of communication. It's important to have a designated point of contact for both parties.

Clearly define your requirements: Be clear about your product requirements and specifications, including ingredient quality, quantity, and delivery timelines. Ensure that both parties have a clear understanding of the requirements to avoid misunderstandings and mistakes.

Request samples: Request samples of the ingredients you are interested in purchasing to ensure their quality and suitability for your product. Conduct a thorough evaluation of the samples before making any purchase decisions.

Review supplier contracts carefully: Review supplier contracts carefully before signing. Ensure that the terms and conditions, including payment terms, delivery schedules, and quality control procedures, are clearly defined and acceptable.

Maintain open communication and build relationships: Building strong relationships with your suppliers can help to ensure that you receive the best quality ingredients and excellent service. Maintain open communication and work collaboratively to build a strong partnership with your suppliers.

By following these tips, you can develop effective relationships with cosmetic ingredient suppliers, ensuring that you receive high-quality ingredients and delivering the best products to your customers.