Disappearing History The medieval Church and graveyard of st laurence

There has always been something fascinating about old churches and the graveyards that surround them. As a child, I would seize any opportunity to drag my father around the graveyard of any church we stumbled upon, to examine the graves and read the brief information chiselled into the headstones. I was fascinated by the age of the graves and curious about the lives of the people buried there.

When I moved from Australia to England ten months ago, I was spoilt for choice when it came to old churches. Not too far from where I now live, is the medieval Church of St Laurence and its surrounding graveyard. This unique 12th-century church sits in the small, peaceful hamlet of Tidmarsh, in the county of Berkshire, England

Southern side and entry to the church grounds.

On my first visit to St Laurence, I wandered around the graveyard, engaging with the history, when I noticed that many of the headstones were weathered, faded, and obscured by vegetation. As I struggled to read many of the inscriptions, I wondered what I could do to help preserve the rapidly deteriorating public history and the memory of those buried there. So, I began informally photographing and transcribing the headstone inscription details before they disappeared forever. My aim is to undertake a more complex, formal survey of the headstones and graveyard using DEBS data sheets and submitting a comprehensive survey for the public record to the burial space research database in the future.

Deteriorating graves in St Laurence churchyard.

St Laurence church and graveyard not only functions as a religious space, but as a public space for remembering and honouring past community members. To quote Dr Lisa Murray, graveyards are a place where public and private memories come together, and people can personally engage with history. Headstones offer a rich source of information about past lives and relationships, while providing historical insight into past community stories and social values. Graveyards are valuable public history spaces, that engage and connect the community with its heritage through accessibility, involvement and participation. The conserving of St Laurence's public history is crucial, benefiting not only the local community but by enabling future generations to engage, interact and understand the past and possibly their ancestry. According to Historic England, graveyards are an “irreplaceable historical resource.”

West end window

The church

St Laurence was designated as a Grade I listed building on April 14th, 1967, recognised for its exceptional architectural and historical significance. The church has been a central part of the Tidmarsh and surrounding community for nearly 1,000 years and holds special social, religious, and historical importance.

While the responsibility for general maintenance and upkeep of the church falls with the church council, they rely on the support of the surrounding community to assist with other important matters. In 1998, the Friends of St Laurence was established to assist with the preservation of the historic building for future generations. They have also created educational pamphlets for visitors, that provide historical information about the church. This illustrates how public history can engage, connect and unite its community, to preserve and learn about their shared heritage. Additionally, to further close the financial gap associated with the church’s preservation, a small charity was formed in 2017 to fund repairs and restoration. This permitted the restoration of several church features, including the unique 13th-century ochre wall paintings and repairs to the Minton floor tiles. The church underwent a comprehensive restoration in 1897.

Minton floor tiles, stained glass windows and ochre wall paintings

The Nave

The nave, or main body of the church, features the original 12th-century open oak trusses that divide the interior into four distinct sections. At the eastern end lies an extremely rare, semi-octagonal apsidal apse and chancel. This is a unique architectural element, with only one other example from a later period in England, located at the church of Madley, Herefordshire. Typically, apses are semi-circular, topped with a curved or domed ceiling.

Credit: Architectural drawing: British Heritage Online.

The Chancel

The chancel, the internal area surrounding the altar, was replaced around 1220 AD and features five small, stained glass, lancet windows. Adjacent the chancel is a 15th-century stepped wooden pulpit, that has been heavily restored. The nave windows were inserted around the late 12th century, while the pair of windows on the western wall are replicas of the originals.

Stained glass windows around chancel.

The Vestry

The vestry, situated on the northern side of the churches western end, is a relatively modern addition, constructed of flint and brick in 1879. Positioned directly above the wooden entry door to vestry, is the roll of Rectors. This documents the name and dates of all parish rectors, since 1257 AD.

The vestry and Roll of Rectors.

Norman Doorway

The main southern entrance features a beautiful, ornately decorated, arched stone doorway, complete with three elaborately carved surrounds and a 12th-century wooden door. This distinctive and rare Norman doorway, which was originally part of an earlier church, predates the western side of St Laurence by approximately fifty years. It stands as the most elaborately decorated doorway in Berkshire.

Norman stone doorway and 12th century wooden door.

The Bell Tower

Located at the west end of the church, the bell tower, wooden choir pews, pipe organ and elaborately carved wooden framing are prominent. The original oak framing, that supports the tower features carvings similar to those found surrounding the main stone doorway. The wooden bell turret houses three bells, which are operated from the main church floor, but are now only capable of gentle swing chiming.

Bell tower at the western end of the church and southern entry doorway.

Bell One: Dated 1687 AD, cast by Samuel Knight. Inscription: “John Knight C W Samuel Knight B1687.

Bell Two: A treble dated 1649 AD, cast by Ellis Knight. Inscription: “Love God 1649.”

Bell Three: The oldest, dated 1510 AD, cast by John White. Inscription: “Sit no men dni bene dictum.”

The Knight family, who made the the St Laurence bells, owned a foundry in Reading, where they manufactured bells between 1518 and 1739 AD. Over this period 12 family members were involved in the foundry business.

12th-Century Font

Positioned under the bell tower lies a late 12th-century baptismal font, which was discovered buried in the churchyard in 1834. These fonts are common in medieval churches and placed near the main entrance to remind parishioners that baptism was a rite of entry into the church. It was common practice to bury a font on consecrated ground or beneath the church when it was replaced. Above and behind the choir pews, on the western wall, is a uniquely designed, 13th-century, stained glass window.

12th century font.

Wall Paintings

Approximately 60 years ago, restoration efforts revealed several distinctive 13th-century wall paintings that had been concealed under plaster due to their once undesirable nature. Rendered in yellow and red ochre with dark brown outlines, these paintings feature apostles clutching books and potential depictions of St Laurence, St George, and St Bartholomew. Despite their deteriorated state, the paintings remain visible.

Yellow and red ochre 13th century wall paintings.

Interior Floor Tombs

At the east end of the nave are three floor tomb slabs with set “brasses.” These tombs are associated with people of high social status.

Middle Tomb: Made of Purbeck marble, featuring the brass of a knight wearing 16th-century armor.

Left Tomb: Depicts a woman dressed in 15th-century clothing. Inscription:

“To Margaret, wife of Thomas Wode, one of the king’s justices in the court of common pleas, formerly wife of Robert Leyneham, Lord of the manor Tidmarsh, died 5th December 1499, to whose soul pray God be propitious.”

Right Tomb: Inscription:

“To William Dale, who died 21st October 1533.”

Credit: St Laurence Church Booklet.

The unique architectural elements and internal features of St Laurence not only enhance the beauty of this medieval church but also reinforce its rich historical significance. These characteristics make St Laurence a unique, treasured and important public history landmark within the local community.

Overgrown graves on the northern church side.

The Graveyard

Behind a high brick and flint wall, the graveyard at St Laurence is peaceful and there is a wild, natural beauty to this sacred space. The northern and eastern walls act as boundaries between the graveyard and adjacent domestic residences that are in very close proximity to some graves. Along the southern wall, facing inwards, are numerous cremation memorial plaques. There are at least 144 visible graves within the graveyard, all aligned in the customary Christian east-west orientation. However, the precise count is difficult to determine, as overgrown vegetation obscures numerous graves and renders them hazardous and inaccessible. View individual headstones here.

To document the headstones, the graveyard was divided into five areas, labelled A through E. All areas have different conditions in terms of ground cover, vegetation, headstones, preservation state and accessibility. For a guide on headstone and monument types, please refer to the D.E.B.S guide here.

Aerial view of St Laurence. Google Earth.

Area A

This section features 29 graves, primarily positioned in an area of well-maintained, flat lawn. However, five graves positioned at the far western end are obscured by dense, overgrown vegetation. This area contains the oldest graves, with a mixture of flat vertical headstones and stone crosses. While most inscriptions remain readable, some have suffered significant weathering. Of particular interest is a Grade II listed chest tomb.

Area A graves and wall cremation plaques.

Area B

Area B contains a total of 29 graves and features a variety of flat vertical headstones and low monuments. These graves are situated on a well-kept lawn adjacent to the church's southern and eastern walls. The graves located at the far eastern end lie amongst vegetation and have suffered considerable weathering. One grave close to the eastern boundary, has eroded so severely that it is almost indistinguishable amongst the vegetation.

Area B graves.

Area C

In this smaller section, there are seven graves situated at the western end of the church, encircled by a well-kept lawn. On the church wall there is one small, broken stone cross with an unreadable inscription. This broken cross possibly belongs to the nearby, single grave, with a small flat vertical missing headstone. The rest of the headstones lie nearer to the western boundary wall, all oriented eastward.

Area C graves.

Area D

Area D contains at least 29 visible graves but is heavily overgrown, which restricts and hinders access to many of them. This area has a diverse array of grave markers, including vertical, flat headstones, wooden, metal, and stone crosses, some stepped and elaborately decorated with extensive inscriptions. It also features low monuments, ledger stones, kerbstones, and statuary. Inscriptions here seem to be more weathered and less readable, with many now difficult to decipher or completely lost. Additionally, several graves in this area, contain multiple family members, including small children and babies.

Overgrown area D graves.

Area E

With 37 visible graves, Area E is engulfed by extremely dense vegetation that poses a hazard to accessibility and conceals holes. The majority headstones are weathered and illegible, with many inscriptions buried beneath soil or obscured by vegetation. Numerous headstones are significantly damaged, fragmented and displaced.

Overgrown area E graves.

Grave and Headstone Conditions

The headstones and graves at St Laurence display various states of preservation, which reflect centuries of exposure to England’s harsh environmental elements. Unfortunately, these conditions have led to the loss valuable historical details about the buried individuals. Historic England notes that headstones from the 17th century and medieval outdoor tombs are rare, highlighting the necessity to conserve St Laurence's gravesites. The deterioration of these graves is a true loss, that affects not only public history and historical records but also the local community that value the church's historical significance, heritage and the memories of those buried there.

Headstones are more than just historical markers, they are commemorations of past lives, acknowledging the existence and value of individuals as family members, friends, and community members. They are tangible, historical elements that provide connections to past personal stories. These markers hold public historical and cultural value, reflecting a community’s cultural attitudes, social values, and beliefs at particular moments in time. They offer insights into personal associations of the deceased, their social status, and reflect the religious beliefs of the living and how they wanted the deceased to be remembered. Additionally, they provide information on social status and wealth.

The Oldest Grave

The oldest known external grave at St Laurence is the Ashlar stone chest tomb of William Butler, which dates back to 1773. This Grade II listed tomb is situated approximately six meters from the southern entrance and was officially listed by Historic England on the 19th of June 1984. The tomb inscription reads,

In memory of William Butler who departed this life on the 22nd of June 1773 aged 57.”

The grade II listed William Butler Tomb.

World War I Graves

World War I and II graves are cared for and safeguarded by the commonwealth War Graves Commision. At St Laurence two known soldiers who are honoured.

Private Edward Bushell, born in 1876, served in World War I, who is buried in St Laurence graveyard. Prior to enlisting, Edward was employed as a gamekeeper and in domestic service. Edward joined the military in June 1916 at age 40, initially serving with the Royal Berkshire Regiment Labour Corps, 9th Battalion, before later transferring to the Essex 649th Regiment Agricultural Corps. He passed away from influenza at age 42, on the 11th of November 1918.

Norman Donaldson, born in 1879, was a warden at St Laurence and prior to enlisting in 1914, he was a fruit and flower grower. He served in the Lt 45th Brigade, Royal Field Artillery, 5th Battery BEF. Norman lost his life at Neuve Chapelle on the 10th of March 1915, at the young age of 35 years. Although he is not buried in the St Laurence graveyard, he is remembered for his connection and commitment to the church.

WWI Edward Bushell grave and Norman Donaldson memorial plaque.

The medieval church, with its unique, distinctive features and weathered gravestones, represent elements of public history that require preservation for the benefit of the community and future generations. Not only is St Laurence a reminder of the past and lives lost, but it is also a reflection of those that contributed to the building of the church and the past society they lived in. The church and graveyard relay the narratives of past lives and community. It reflects the loss, grief and sadness experienced by the living and their attempt to remember the ones they loved. It is our duty, as community members to remember, learn from and conserve the past, for the benefit of the future.

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