Courtney Bagans canal community story
Bike-packing the C&O Canal towpath was an absolute dream come true! Back in 2020, my friends and I were inspired to complete the 184.5 miles from Cumberland, MD to Washington D.C. on bike. Nearly four years later, this dream became a reality as we took a shuttle to the trailhead in Cumberland this past June [2024] to start a four-day, three-night bike-pack adventure.
We officially began our journey at Basecamp Coffee in Cumberland where we filled ourselves with much needed caffeine to energize us for the day. We then biked 43 miles along the towpath, navigating gravel roads winding along the Potomac River, to a campsite at Little Orleans.
The next morning, we earned our group name - Girls on the Road - bestowed on us by some nearby campers at Little Orleans who, as fellow female adventures, admired our strength and perseverance despite sore muscles and morning aches. It was calming to meet such kind and kindred travelers along the trail, and it made us feel welcome and empowered along the ride. In fact, we met several incredibly warm and welcoming groups as we biked, from a group of cyclers who supported us through changing a flat tire, a couple who shared their water filter after ours broke, a gentlemen who offered bike tips to help with joint pain, and other bike-packers.
The next two days, we biked 50 and 60 miles, respectively, stopping at Opequon Junction and Chisel Branch campsites along the way. We also stopped for lunch daily at small town restaurants to rest our legs and re-fuel. Some of our favorite spots were Buddylou’s in Hancock, Little Brick Coffee in Shepherdstown, and The Rabbit Hole in Harper’s Ferry. The trail was not short of friendly faces, pristine natural beauty, cute and cozy towns, and a rich history of Native American culture, Civil War happenings, and 19th century transportation expansion.
On the last day, we biked 30 miles from Chisel Branch to the zero mile marker in Georgetown. We passed breathtaking river bends, cycled across wooden bridges, and were continuously humbled at the Potomac River’s omnipresence on the towpath – a presence so big and consuming it makes the hustle and bustle of an urban city, less than 200 miles away, feel negligible.
We were proud to complete the trail from start to finish, as this journey was a testament to our strength as women and aptitude for collaboration and flexibility as four friends traversing a new landscape. Yet, we were also nostalgic to part ways with this beautiful historic park. And mostly, we were grateful to the National Park Service and C&O Canal Trust for ensuring D.C. locals and beyond have access to this preserved pathway for recreation and historical education!