Chris Weidner on the first ascent of “Gambler’s Fallacy,” (5.13b, V) The Diamond, Longs Peak, Rocky Mountain National Park, CO. Photo by AAC member Jon Glassberg / Louder Than 11.
Paul and Marni Robertson on “Moonlight Buttress” (5.12d), Zion National Park, Utah. Photo by AAC member Jeremiah Watt.
What is the PARC Act?
The Protecting America’s Rock Climbing (PARC) Act is a bipartisan bill written and introduced by Representative John Curtis (R-UT 3rd District) and co-sponsored by Representative Joe Neguse (D-CO, 2nd District) to ensure responsible access to rock climbing in designated Wilderness areas.
The PARC Act will:
- Require federal agencies to recognize recreational climbing as an appropriate activity in accordance with the Wilderness Act of 1964.
- State that the placement, use, and maintenance of fixed anchors is appropriate.
- Ensure a public comment period is made available prior to any final climbing management guidance being issued.
The PARC Act is included in the EXPLORE recreation package being considered in the House. Similar climbing provisions are included in the AORA recreation package being considered in the Senate. If these packages are approved, the bills will become law (assuming the reconciled bill is signed by the President).
Nik Berry and Madaleine Sorkin on “El Corazon” (5.13b, VI), El Capitan, Yosemite National Park, California. Photo by AAC member Jeremiah Watt.
What are the recent Forest Service and National Park Service climbing guidance proposals?
These two separate and distinct climbing guidance proposals inform how these agencies would manage climbing and fixed anchors within their respective areas.
What might these proposals mean for climbers?
By reclassifying fixed anchors (including slings, bolts, pitons, and ice screws) as prohibited installations in designated Wilderness found in national parks and national forests, existing and new fixed anchors would require analysis and approval by the local land managers.
These proposals reclassify fixed anchors as installations and reverse the precedent of what has been understood as an allowable activity in Wilderness since before the Wilderness Act of 1964.
Scott Willson on the “East Buttress” (5.10b) of El Capitan, Yosemite National Park, California. Photo by AAC member Andrew Burr.
How does the PARC Act overlap with the NPS and USFS proposals?
Both the PARC Act and the NPS and USFS proposals could potentially impact the use of fixed anchors for climbing in Wilderness, but via different mechanisms.
Law: The PARC Act is a proposed law to be voted on by Congress via the AORA and EXPLORE packages.
Guidance: The NPS and USFS proposals are guidance issued by the respective agencies informing how local land managers (in parks like Yosemite, Black Canyon, Zion, and more) should manage fixed anchors for climbing.
What's next?
If the PARC Act passes (via the EXPLORE and AORA packages) and becomes law, land management agencies will have a clear directive that fixed anchors are allowable in designated Wilderness.
If these bills do not pass, the USFS and NPS agencies will consider public comments (from climbers like you!) to inform the climbing management guidance provided to local land managers. The public comment period for both proposals ends on January 16th, 2024.
The sequence of which goes into effect first is still up in the air—which is why it’s important to share your voice on both the agency proposals and the PARC Act. Learn more via this joint summary from the AAC, Access Fund, and American Mountain Guides Association. Also, check out the Wilderness Climbing FAQ from our partners at Access Fund.
Share Your Voice
Climbers have been advocates for the Wilderness Act from the beginning—let’s continue this tradition by encouraging these agencies to uphold the sustainable use of fixed anchors, as they have been utilized in Wilderness since its inception.
The AAC has been busy advocating for climbers on Capitol Hill...
We sat down with pro climber Nina Williams to learn about her experience advocating alongside the American Alpine Club and Access Fund, read the interview below.
AAC: What was your motivation for joining the advocacy work in DC?
Nina Williams: I originally had an international trip planned, but I had to cut my international trip short, and the first thing that came to mind was: ”I can go on the DC trip!” Access Fund, the American Alpine Club, and the North Face had all invited me to come, and originally I was really bummed that I couldn’t come. But when those plans changed, I was so excited because I’ve been to DC before, but not on behalf of the climbing community.
It was a cool introduction, to be able to represent the climbing community, represent the AAC as the VP of the Board, and The North Face as a professional climber, and Access Fund as a climber. Participating in this work made sense for me on a personal level because it connects with my values of wanting to make a difference, wanting to make change, and doing it in a way where I can see the change happening, even if not in that moment. But to create connections and relationships with House Representatives, with Senators, with staffers, going face to face and saying “hey this thing really matters.” And I’m able to tell you with my voice and my body language that this matters to me–that was very powerful to have the opportunity to do that.
AAC: Give us an idea of what it was like, advocating on behalf of the climbing community?
Nina: I got there a day later than the others, and Erik from the AF handed me the schedule like “Alright, you’re in it,” and we just had meeting after meeting after meeting. I sort of felt like Hermione Granger in Harry Potter when she takes all of her classes at the same time, and she has to use the time turner to travel because she has to be in two places at once—that’s what our whole team was dealing with. And I was intimidated….I don’t dress in suits very often, and I just remember walking through the halls of some of the Senate buildings, hearing the echo of our steps, feeling the history of the place, and feeling the bustle of the modern vibe and everyone being busy–it was an experience of motion.
We were constantly going from building to building, people to people–it was a cool practice in being able to articulate the PARC Act and why it matters. And working together as a team–joining forces with the Access Fund and AAC and standing in front of our government and bringing attention to something that really matters. I just loved being there with Erik from the Access Fund, Byron from the AAC, and all of the athletes–Colette McInerney, Timmy O’Neill, Tim Kang, and Tommy Caldwell. It was a big meeting of the minds and a meeting of identities.
AAC: Many climbers rarely climb in Wilderness areas. Do you see this issue as being relevant to all climbers despite that?
Nina: “Wilderness Areas” can sometimes feel really abstract…we’re talking about this impacting climbing in The Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Joshua Tree National Park, and even Yosemite, and more. But it affects all climbers from a philosophical standpoint—essentially, we as a community are trying to partner seriously with our government and land management agencies to figure out how to best manage climbing across the country. And I personally think this big question is an opportunity to work together and strengthen our sense of ourselves as a community.
AAC: What’s next? How can climbers follow your lead and take action to protect Wilderness climbing?
Nina: A lot is happening behind the scenes, so right now I’d just say be sure to stay up to date on AAC and AF channels and take action when you can! You can do something TODAY by sharing your thoughts with the NPS and USFS about their proposed climbing guidelines, and with your Senators and Representatives about the PARC Act!
Share Your Voice
Help the AAC and climbers like Nina advocate for the responsible use of fixed anchors in climbing—share your voice today!