'Recap'
Day One & Day Two
We got on an Air New Zealand jet with our brand new U. S. Passports and flew for 13 hours to Auckland, New Zealand. Auckland and Los Angeles are in two different 'Time Zones' so It was like being in a time machine because Auckland is nineteen hours ahead of Los Angeles!' As soon as we landed, we went to the Auckland Hilton to check in. The hotel sits right on the water and has A M A Z I N G suites with wrap-around balconies!
Our Wheel the World travel guides took us to Sky City where we saw the city of Auckland from the top of the Sky Tower, we watched daredevils on the Sky Walk and the Sky Jump, and we got some thrills of our own on the VIRTUAL Sky Slide!
Then we went to the All Blacks Experience and Weta Workshop Unleashed --- where we saw amazing life-life creatures like Smaug from the Lord of the Rings and Jeff, the giant 'animatronic' troll. We had lunch at the All-You-Can-Eat-Buffet at Fortuna's Restaurant and then returned to the hotel to relax and enjoy the INCREDIBLE view from our Bow Suite balconies!
After a lovely 'siesta' in our beautiful Bow Suites, we were refreshed and ready for dinnertime!
We went downstairs to the Bellini Bar where we enjoyed a delicious dinner, great harbor views, and a tasty Bellini Mocktail!
During dinner, we went over the highlights of our first day in Auckland and all agreed it was the PERFECT start of our trip to New Zealand! By dessert, the day finally caught up to us and we were ready to call it a night. We went back upstairs to our suites, crawled into our comfortable beds, and fell asleep before our heads hit the pillow!
Day Three
The next morning we started our day downstairs in the Fish Restaurant where we were treated to a buffet breakfast fit for a king with lovely harbor breezes that came in through the 'accordion glass doors' that opened up to the deck outside.
Our first stop after breakfast was the New Zealand Maritime Museum where we had a private tour of the museum and its many interesting exhibits.
Our favorite exhibit was the Blue Water Black Magic exhibition. It was an emotional tribute to Sir Peter Blake, the famous New Zealand sailor who won the America's Cup and beat the record for the fastest non-stop race around the world in a yacht. Sadly, Peter had been shot and killed on October 5, 2001, by a band of pirates --- known as the Water Rats --- who tried to rob his crew at the end of their three-month 'expedition' up the Amazon.
We left the museum and walked out to the dock where a boat was waiting for us. The ship was called the 'Ted Ashby' and It was one of the New Zealand National Maritime Museum's fully-restored 'heritage' vessels. We went on an hour-long harbor cruise to see the Auckland 'skyline' and Auckland Harbor Bridge from the sea. It was a windy day, so the harbor is filled with sailboats. It was obvious why Auckland is called the 'City of Sails!'
After our harbor cruise, it was time for lunch. So, we headed over to the Federal Delicatessen just a few minutes away from the museum. It was like being in a New York Jewish deli in the 1950s. Many of us tried their 'signature dish' called the 'Reuben' (which was SCRUMDIDDLYUMPTIOUS) and their Banoffee Pie (which is a Banana Cream and Toffee Pie TO DIE FOR!!!).
After lunch, we went back to the hotel to spend the afternoon doing whatever we wanted to do. Some of us went swimming, some played cards, others watched movies, a few put puzzles together, many of us took long afternoon naps --- that's what I did. Just sayen' :- ), and some of us sat on our balconies and watched the sailboats sail by in the harbor. GOODTIMES!
After a relaxing afternoon, we had dinner at a cool PIRATE restaurant called 'Swashbucklers' Seafood Restaurant! It was located close to the hotel in the Westhaven Marina and has been a local favorite since 1997. They have seafood, steak, and chicken 'entrees,' so there's something for everybody.
We learned all about 'Talk Like A Pirate' day. which falls on September 19th every year. Our SCIL Travel Club members are thinking about having a Pirate Party this September so we're learning new pirate words like 'Ahoy,' 'Shiver me timbers,' and 'Yo ho, me hearties!'
Hey! If we have a Pirate Party, do you wanna come? If so, you might want to get a Pirate name!
My first name and last name start with an 'S' and I was born in September so my pirate name is... "Eagle Eyed Davey Sparrow"
We sat at cozy tables by the fire and ordered whatever we wanted from the menu. Our waiter, Finn, made us feel like honorary swashbucklers and brought us some of the best food we'd had so far on this trip. By the time we finished our desserts, we felt like a merry band of pirates ready to set sail for the Caribbean! The perfect ending to the evening was waiting outside on the dock for Mr. and Mrs. Jamison to pick us up in the ADA vans and watching the Auckland Harbour Bridge lights twinkle across the water.
We went back to our hotel --- with the incredible view --- and fell fast asleep dreaming of pirates and sailing on gentle seas ever onward into the horizon.
Day Four ~ Devonport
We had an early start, but our Wheel the World travel guides brought us coffee and croissants to help us 'clear the cobwebs' and get downstairs on time where our private drivers, Henry and Cooper, were already waiting for us in the mobility vans. Instead of taking the Devonport Ferry, we were driving across the Auckland Harbor Bridge --- which is 210 feet high --- to the quaint seaside village of Devonport.
We arrived in Devonport in about 30 minutes. Henry & Cooper took us up Victoria Road (the main road in the village) and dropped us off at Corelli's Cafe. Louise, our Devonport travel guide from the ToursByLocals, was already waiting for us in the shaded front patio area where we all sat down for breakfast.
Learning About New Zealand Money
Mrs. Jamison (our other Wheel the World travel Leader) gave us little leather 'crossbody' money bags with our names on them. Our generous benefactors gave us $300 in New Zealand dollar bills and coins to use so we could practice budgeting our money while learning about New Zealand's 'currency.' Once Louise described what was on the front and back of each bright and colorful $5, $10, $20, $50, $100 'banknotes,' we got to pick out a dessert from the display case, and buy it with your New Zealand money!
Shopping in Devonport
After our first successful purchase using New Zealand money, Louise led us out of Corelli's Cafe and down Victoria Road. We had plenty of time to go inside any shop that interested us and our Wheel the World travel guides were right there to help us if we wanted to buy a souvenir.
I just love to go shopping. Don't you?
DEVONPORT CHOCOLATES
The last stop on our Devonport Village Shopping Spree was at Devonport Chocolates. They've been in business for over 30 years making 'gourmet' chocolates featuring the unique flavors of New Zealand. They even made things like CHOCOLATE SHOES!!! This was a TERRIFIC place to get a souvenir and ship home to our families. We also watched the 'chocolatiers,' who were busy at work in the kitchen making chocolates, through a big observation window in the back of the shop.
'Continuation'
of
Day Four ~ Devonport
Oh yeah! We were just leaving Devonport Chocolates!
North Head
Henry & Cooper picked us up in the ADA vans and drove us along the Devonport Waterfront Promenade (the road is called King Edward Parade) which wraps around the coastline from the ferry building to North Head where the Torpedo Bay Navy Museum is located.
It was a beautiful drive along the waterfront to North Head.
Did You Know?
In the 1700s, the Māori Ngati Paoa tribe settled in the Devonport area and built a fortified village --- called a Maori Pa --- on the 'summit' of North Head. It was a defensive settlement designed to give the tribe protection from 'invaders' but they were attacked by the Nga Puhi tribe and pushed out of their homes in the late 1770’s.
North Head (called, Maungauika - which means "the mountain of Uika" in the Māori language) is a volcano and an ancestral mountain (Tūpuna Maunga - which means "ancestral mountains" in the Māori language) forming a 'headland' at the east end of the Waitematā Harbour, in Devonport.
North Head was formed during a series of volcanic eruptions around 50,000 years ago making it one of the older 'volcanic cones' in Auckland.
North Head is known for its sweeping views over the harbor and the Hauraki Gulf. and since 1885, North Head was mainly used by the military as a coastal defense complex, which left a 'maze' of accessible old bunkers and tunnels that now attract tourists to North Head.
Torpedo Bay Navy Museum
The Torpedo Bay Navy Museum is the official museum of the Royal New Zealand Navy. It opened on October 9, 2010, on the site of an early naval base where mines were placed across the Harbor entrance to protect against a possible attack by the Russian navy in the late 1800s. The museum is located in the original buildings constructed in 1896. it cost $1.5 million in New Zealand dollars to 'renovate' them.
The navy has been in Devonport since the early days. Its history is on display at this well-presented and often moving museum, focusing on the stories of the sailors themselves. As an island nation, the sea plays a very important role in New Zealand's travel, business, and defense. The museum focuses on the history of the Navy and its current role in protecting the country.
Did You Know?
Devonport has its own Naval Base. It is currently the only base of the navy that operates ships and has been used as a Navy base since 1841.
Henry & Cooper drove our ADA vans into the museum parking lot and found a mobility parking space near the front entrance.
The parking lot was next to a colorful little playground in front of the museum. We followed a white ramp from the playground parking lot past the outdoor dining space for the Torpedo Bay Café.
The café is located at the main entrance to the museum and offers hot and cold beverages, snacks, and light meals. As we walked in, the menu was tempting but Mrs. Jamison said we already had lunch reservations elsewhere but we could take a break and have a round of 'Decaf' 'Mochaccinos.'
Ummm. So, what's a 'Mochaccino?'
Louise considers herself a coffee 'connoisseur' and while we were enjoying the view and waiting for our order, she explained what a Mochaccino was.
"A Mochaccino is a Cappuccino with chocolate syrup added. Both of these coffee drinks are made with Espresso, steamed milk, and often have ground cinnamon or chocolate powder sprinkled on top," Louise said.
"Who knows what an Expresso is?" Louise asked.
Louise looked at our blank expressions and grinned, "No worries. A lot of people don't know what Espresso is. Here's the 'TEA.'
"Espresso has a rich, concentrated coffee flavor with a thicker and creamier texture than regular coffee and many popular coffee drinks are made with it --- like Mochaccinos," Louise explained.
"You'll find different 'variations' of the way Mochaccinos are made --- depending on who's making it. But, for today, I'll be explaining how they make it here at the Torpedo Bay Cafè.
"As I said, a Mochaccino is a popular espresso-based coffee drink that combines the rich flavors of chocolate and coffee, topped with a layer of 'frothy' steamed milk or whipped cream. Quite often, in fact, you'll hear people calling them “Caffè Mochas” or simply “Mochas.”
"Mochaccinos were inspired by Italian espresso drinks that combine elements of traditional Cappuccinos with chocolate to create a new and indulgent beverage, called a Mochaccino!
After enjoying our yummy Decaf Mochaccinos, we set out to take a tour of the Torpedo Bay Navy Museum.
Jake is our friendly --- and very knowledgeable --- museum guide. He takes us around the museum and explains everything of interest about the 'exhibits.'
The Navy Museum showcases the story of the New Zealand Navy. Visitors to the Museum can take a journey through the memories, dangers, loss, 'triumphs,' and humor of the men and women who served --- and continue to serve --- in the New Zealand Navy.
There's a large range of hands-on exhibits, fascinating objects and photos, artwork, personal tales, and models that tell the story of the Navy and the individuals who were and are part of it. You can even see how sailors lived on the 'mess deck.' There's something for everyone at the Torpedo Bay Navy Museum!
The museum is located at the site of an early naval base where mines were placed across the Harbor entrance to protect against a possible attack by the Russian navy in 1888.
In this photo, you see a view of Waitemata Harbor (with the Auckland 'skyline' in the far background) where the minefield was connected by cables running the shortest distance across Waitemata Harbor at its shallowest depth. A safe passage through the center of the minefield ensured that “friendly” ships could pass unharmed.
By 1891, the defense site at Torpedo Bay had grown to include offices, workshops, a 'metalsmith' shop, and a building to store the mines (called the Minestore).
The Minestore was recently restored and turned into two new gallery spaces and a new learning space as part of the Navy Museum.
Rail tracks were set into the ground to enable the mines to be moved around the site on trolleys. Once the mines had been armed and assembled they were transported along the tracks to the end of the pier and from there strung across the harbor.
Did You Know
Mines were known as torpedoes until 1866. When self-propelled torpedoes came into use, mines were no longer referred to as torpedoes.
Pilot Bay became known as Torpedo Bay because of the torpedo boats that were 'moored' in the harbor. A waterfront plaque on King Edward Parade and Cheltenham Road in Devonport reads: 'TORPEDO BAY. NAMED AFTER THE TORPEDO BOATS THAT MOORED AT THE NAVAL 'WHARF' FROM 1886. THE BAY WAS USED BY HARBOR PILOTS FROM 1841 AND WAS THE SITE OF SHIPBUILDING YARDS.'
Jake made everything extra interesting because he took the time to tell us stories about the 'artifacts' in the exhibits.
The BEST STORIES Jake told us were from the SHIP'S CATS EXHIBIT.
Like this photo of Lieutenant Commander Finch, his cat, Tabs, and Lieutenant Blair, on board the HMNZS Scarba from 1941-46
Did You Know?
A ship is a natural environment for cats. Countless thousands of nooks and crannies, hidden spaces, dark passages too small for humans to fit into, and comfortable, warm places to take a nice nap in --- this is what makes up the lower decks of a ship. While some spaces are loud and brightly lit, others are shadowy and seldom visited by the ship’s crew. Cats LOVE places like that!
In the old days, and still on many ships today, cats were brought on board to hunt for 'stowaway' rats that made their way onto the ship. Rats are a natural 'prey' for cats, so for hundreds of years, sailors brought them on their voyages with them. Not only do the cats take care of the rat problem, but they make great companions to the officers and the crew.
Sailors were also known to adopt a “ship’s cat” as it would bring the boat good luck. Cats on ships were believed to have SUPERPOWERS and be able to predict the weather! For example, if a cat licked its fur against the grain it meant a hailstorm was coming; if it sneezed, rain was on the way; and if it was frisky, the wind would soon blow. Sailors believed cats could start storms with the magic stored in their tails so they always kept them well fed and contented. If a ship’s cat came to a sailor, it meant good luck. But, on the other hand, if the ship's cat approached a sailor but changed its mind and then walked away, it was bad luck.
For an animal that is known for hating water, cats have a long history of joining humans at sea. They are mainly brought on board for their skills in pest control --- a practice that dates back as far as Ancient Egypt --- but cats have taken to life on the ocean waves beautifully thanks to their natural balance and 'agility'... That, and having plenty of things to climb!
Although these 'sea-faring' cats had their duties to perform, many of them were loved and spoiled by the crew, as they were a great source of entertainment on long voyages. Several ship cats even became famous! Of all the interesting stories we heard about Ship's Cats and their sailors, two stories stood out...
One story was about Churchill, who was meeting with President Roosevelt aboard the HMS Prince of Wales in 1941, and took time out of his busy schedule to greet the Ship's Cat, Blackie.
And, the other story that caught our attention was about a cat named Jenny who joined the crew of the Titanic and is said to have predicted the ship’s sinking. Here's how the story goes…
Jenny had been transferred to the RMS Titanic from her sister ship, the RMS Olympic, to help get rid of any mice who might have snuck on board.
Cats were allowed to roam free around the ship to keep 'vermin' away from the food supplies. And, it just so happened that Jenny was an EXPERT mouser!
In this photo taken by Francis Browne, you see two passengers taking a morning stroll on the deck of the Titanic. It was still wet from overnight washing. In the background, you can one of the Ship's Cats --- who had found a dry spot on a 'crane' --- keeping a watchful eye for any mice activity.
Jenny was very affectionate toward one of the 'scullions' named Joseph "Jim" Mulholland and would seek him out for attention.
Jenny gave birth the week before the Titanic set sail for New York. Jim made a comfortable place for them in the 'galley' and to make sure they were well taken care of, he brought them table scraps to eat.
Jenny was mentioned in the accounts of several of the crew members who survived the ocean liner's fateful 1912 maiden voyage. Stewardess Violet Jessop --- who was one of the survivors --- later wrote about Jenny in her 'memoir.' She said that the cat "laid her family near Jim, the scullion, whose approval she always sought and who always gave her warm devotion.".
Work was difficult to find in those days. Jim, who had a temporary position on the Titanic during the sailing trials from the Irish Sea to Southampton, was offered a full-time job for the maiden voyage from Southampton to New York. Needless to say, he was THRILLED to have found permanent employment!
And then the strangest thing happened! Jim saw Jenny move her kittens off the ship one by one before the Titanic left on its cross-Atlantic voyage. Like most sailors, Jim was superstitious. When he saw Jenny abandoning ship he thought that was a very bad omen indeed. One he decided not to ignore. He gathered up his belongings and followed Jenny and her kittens off the ship --- leaving his newfound job behind. Turns out, trusting Jenny's instincts saved his life.
Whether Jenny knew something bad was going to happen and got her kittens off the ship, or it was just a coincidence, no one will really ever know for sure. But one thing's for certain, Joseph "Jim" Mulholland lived a good, long life in Dublin, Ireland, unlike so many others who died when the Titanic sank, all because of a Ship's Cat named Jenny.
We finished up our tour of the museum with a quick stop at the gift shop to see if there was a souvenir or two we couldn't live without.
Then it was time to get back on the road. There is still so much to see before we head back to Auckland.
From the Torpedo Bay Navy Museum, we took a three-minute drive up to the summit of North Head.
Not only did we get to see the sweeping views of the Hauraki Gulf, but we also got to check out a special war-time cannon called "The Disappearing Gun!"
PLUS, we get to explore some TUNNELS on the way to see the cannon!
This is Finlay and his golden retriever on the top of North Head looking out over Torpedo Bay and out towards Auckland. Finlay and his family love to travel. His mom, Kimberly, writes an Accessible Travel Blog called Grab Your Wheels.
As we are going in the same direction Finlay is, let's follow him to the North Head Tunnels.
Did You Know?
The defenses on North Head consisted of three cannon locations. The North Cannon faced over the Rangitoto Channel, the South Cannon faced over the inner harbor, and the Summit Cannon sat on the top of the hill. These first 'fortifications' were constructed in a hurry, but later expanded and strengthened over 25 years by 'convict' labor of up to 40 prisoners living in 'barracks' on the hilltop. The prisoners added 'extensive' tunnel systems, underground storerooms, and many observation posts.
Thankfully the grass is hard-packed and our power chairs can get around with no problem. Let's follow Finlay into the tunnels.
Good thing Finlay's power chair has headlights. It looks kinda dark at the end of the tunnel down there!
Exploring the North Head Tunnels is so much fun! It's great to see a fellow wheelchair user having just as much fun as we are!
Wow! What's that at the end of the tunnel? Oh! It's The Disappearing Gun!
After leaving the tunnels we returned the way we came and followed Finlay up the road until we came to a gate. "No problem, guys. We'll just go around it. Follow me!" Finlay said.
When we got to the top of the hill, Finlay said over his shoulder, "Hey, guys, check it out. The Disappearing Gun is right over there. Let's go check it out!"
"How cool is this?" He said.
Did You Know?
Built-in 1886 and installed on North Head in 1887, the South Cannon is an 8-inch disappearing gun. It is called that because the shell it fired was 8 inches in 'diameter,' and the gun was designed to pull back below ground between shots so it could be loaded out of sight of any attacking ships.
There are very few of these guns left anywhere in the world and this particular model is very unusual as it was only ever used in New Zealand and Australia.
When the gun was fired, the backward force pushed the gun backward and down into the pit. It was then reloaded and aimed while still out of sight of the enemy. Aiming was done by moving the gun around and up and down by using hand wheels on the front and side of the cannon. Orders on where to aim came down from the Observation Post by 'speaking tubes.'
The observation post is the little round structure with the cone-shaped roof further up the hill. The speaking tubes were simply pipes that the orders were 'relayed' through. When the gun was ready to fire the pressure in the cylinder was released. This pressure pushed the gun back up to the surface. The gun was fired and the process started all over again.
While The Disappearing Gun worked, there were problems. Due to the complicated workings of the gun, it fired very slowly and the many valves often leaked, which meant the gun had to be pumped into position by hand. Eventually, people realized that ships found it very hard to hit anything as small as a gun which meant the gun could have been put out in the open and still have been safe from enemy fire. So, at the end of the day, the wonderful disappearing mounting that the gun was anchored to, was not really needed after all.
Also, I bet you didn't know that while The Disappearing Gun has been fired in practice many, many times --- as seen above --- it was never fired at an enemy vessel.
Traveling further up the road we came across a series of old buildings. Back in the 1880s, when the threat of being attacked was high, a little village of buildings was quickly built on the top of North Head where soldiers were stationed to be on alert for possible Russian invaders. When the immediate threat had passed, the Public Works Department managed 300 unemployed men who were sent to North Head to work on the new installation plans that Captain Edmund Tudo Boddam re-designed. But the cost of construction was too expensive so the 300 men were replaced by 30 to 40 prisoners who were housed in one of the army barracks. Using picks, shovels, and wheelbarrows, tunnels were dug, underground storage rooms were built, concrete was mixed, and bricks were laid.
Finlay showed us where the heliport was and said, “It's so cool to see the Navy and Department of Conservation workers land their helicopters up here. But even better than that is to watch paragliders take off from the side of the bank right over there. It’s just the BEST!!!
We follow our new friend, Finlay, back down to the base of North Head, enjoying the spectacular views along the way.
Thanks for showing us around North Head, Finlay! Let's be pen pals, okay?
We exchange addresses with Finlay and say goodbye to our new Kiwi friend. We hop back into our ADA vans and go for a 2-minute drive to McHugh's Of Cheltenham where we had reservations for LUNCH!
Mc Hugh's Of Cheltenham
McHugh's Of Cheltenham has an incredible all-you-can-eat buffet!
McHugh's Of Cheltenham is located on the most beautiful beach in Devonport --- Cheltenham Beach.
Cheltenham Beach is a long, narrow stretch of sandy beach that looks out over the Hauraki Gulf and has a splendid view of Rangitoto Island. The calm water is ideal for swimming and kayaking and it’s a popular spot for picnics, having a couple of benches located in tree-shaded areas that overlook the coastline.
One of the best things about eating at an all-you-can-eat buffet is the amount of different things to try!
There are lots of salads, pasta, hot dishes, seafood options, and even a whole dessert buffet you can pick and choose from!
Not only is the food REALLY GOOD, but the view is STELLAR!
A table was reserved for us by the window and there was a gift bag on each of our 'place settings.'
Inside the gift bag was an awesome book that was for sale in the Torpedo Bay Navy Museum. It has 365 different knot challenges --- One for every day of the year!
What a cool gift to remember from our trip to the Torpedo Bay Navy Museum! This is the knot for Day 104.
Did You Know?
April 14 is the 104th day of the year (except in 'leap years' when it falls on day 105)! 261 days remain until the end of the year.
We leave the buffet at McHugh's of Cheltenham with full tummies and a smile on our faces!
"We have one more museum to check out today. It's small so we won't be there very long, and after that, I have a surprise for you!" Louise said.
Oh, goody. I just LOVE surprises, don't you?
We get back into our ADA vans and take a quick 3-minute drive to the Devonport Museum.
Devonport Museum
The museum is located in the beautiful 'Mt.' Cambria 'nature reserve.'
On 30 March 1978, the old 1890 Devonport Presbyterian church building was moved onto the Mount Cambria site. The museum itself was opened on February 10, 1980, and the gardens were opened on November 22, 1981.