Adapted from the 2023 Trip Report by Sarina Pizzala. Photos by Sarina Pizzala.
Queer Mountaineers is a Pacific Northwest based non-profit that aims to provide community, events, resources, and a safe space for outdoor enthusiasts of all backgrounds, genders, and sexualities. Founders and directors Sarina Pizzala and Jude Glenn had a dream to put on one of the first all-queer climbs of Kulshan (Mount Baker) in the North Cascades.
Kulshan is known as a mountaineering training ground with a relatively straightforward and beginner-friendly approach. They met Jack Bynum at Indigo Alpine Guides, who shared the same passion for creating safe spaces for the LGBTQIA+(Lesiban, Gay, Bisexual, Transgender, Queer/Questioning, Intersex, Asexual) community. Together, the three of them planned a four-day course that would cover basic mountaineering skills. The American Alpine Club Catalyst grant helped cover the cost of the guides for this course.
The climb would consist of a combination of volunteers from Queer Mountaineers that were seeking to gain the skills and an application process with priority to the QTBIPOC population. The application had over 50 applicants from over 15 states and even Canada. This demand showed the need for inclusive, safe spaces for the LGBTQIA+ community.
Day one included a gear check and getting everyone to the base camp of the volcano. The group set up camp at the foot of the expansive, beautiful glaciers and looked in awe at the mountain they would attempt to climb.
The group attempted to go to bed early for a 2 a.m. start for the glaciated climb. Before going to bed, all had noted with tears in their eyes how special it was to do something so difficult and challenging in a safe space with those who understood them.
Day three, the group broke into three rope teams, one led by co-founder Pizzala and the others led by the two guides. For many in the group, this would be the hardest physical challenge they had ever attempted.
They climbed for hours in the dark with headlamps on over giant crevasses. They moved for 50 minutes, took a 10-minute break, and then repeated the process.
The sun slowly started to rise, and the summit inched closer and closer. The group maintained a methodical pace up the volcano. Conditions were favorable, not too icy or windy, and mostly clear. The group got to the infamous 'Roman Wall', notably the steepest part of the climb. This section had perfect steps up to the summit ridge.
Many participants cried joyfully and hugged each other with views of Mt. Shuksan and Canada looming in the distance.