[Kirk in normal font. Elaine in bold font.]
Had coffee at Starbucks. I have to say we have had coffee at Starbucks more times on this trip than we have in the past year in Vancouver! It is the one shop that is around, open, and has space. A bit bummed about that because all the coffee we have had at independent coffee shops have all been really good and we really wanted to have more of it.
Checked out of the hotel at 10am.
Took a cab from the BnA Wall hotel (near Tokyo Station) out to Shimokitazawa. We had originally planned on sending our luggage around using a baggage service. But, just grabbing a big cab that can hold all our stuff was so much easier and faster. And, it meant we didn't have to re-pack overnight bags -- there's no guarantee on when our bags would have been delivered.
Moved from Chuo City to Shimokitazawa. With it being New Year’s Eve we were warned that transport services might take days. We decided to use Uber.
Drivers in Japan, taxi and Uber drivers, take their job very seriously. There are articles about etiquette to follow - whether using taxis or other driving services. We should have read up beforehand but we failed. We ended up making a few faux pas ☹️: 1) Don’t open your own door, drivers open and close them automatically; 2) Don’t help with the luggage, that is their responsibility; 3) Do not make small talk with the driver.
It started with an innocent question from Kali about whether not we were supposed to talk to the driver as it might be disrupting his work. I frantically searched articles on etiquette online during our ride and sent info to the family. Next time we need to research before trying anything new!
The drive was pleasant but awkwardly quiet. Traveling in Tokyo by car is very different than travelling by train.
We couldn’t check in until 2pm so we left our luggage at the hotel and went for a walk around the neighbourhood.
It was New Year's Eve. A LOT of places in Shimokitazawa are closed for the ENTIRE WEEK we're here. But, we found a cool coffeeshop that was open today. But, they have a sign saying they'll be closed for the next few days.
A lot of places were not open yet as it was still early. Shimokitazawa doesn't seem to open up until 11:00 or later.
We found the Brooklyn Roasting Company. We were lucky to have stumbled across it today because it is closed for the next four days!
Eavesdropping at the coffee shop it was pretty clear that Shimokitazawa is very touristy. Heard people from Australia, China, Denmark, USA, etc.
Looking at various store signs around Shimokitazawa a lot of places were either closed or had limited hours while we were here. Decided to walk around here today and try to see what we could.
Checked out a few vintage stores. The stores carried a varied assortment of styles. Something for everyone.
When I started researching our Tokyo trip, I was trying to pick a neighbourhood to stay in. Last time, we stayed in Nakameguro, which I really liked. It's away from the crazy busy areas and had a good strollable neighbourhood feel with lots of little stores and coffeeshops. Completely different than Shinjuku or Ginza.
So, on this trip, I decided on Shimokitazawa. It's full of vintage clothing stores and little restaurants. We visited it on our first trip to Japan in 2016.
I spent some time watching YouTube videos, and came across one from a Vancouver guy who does anime pilgrimages -- basically visiting real life locations of anime shows. And, he did a video about visiting locations from "Bocchi the Rock", which is about a highschool girl who starts a band with some friends in Shimokitazawa. Elaine and I ended up binge watching the first season (second season hasn't been released yet).
Shimokitazawa definitely knows its audience!Bocchi merch and posters are everywhere! Tourists were either here for vintage shopping, a Bocchi pilgrimage, or both.
Everywhere we went for location photos had other fans looking for the same thing. You could see everyone gathered in the same locations, looking at their phones, trying to find the right angle. Then taking similar photos.
I made our kids recreate one of the scenes that takes place in front of some graffiti.
Went into a tiny punk rock store. I was looking thru his racks and saw SNFU and DOA tees! I asked if I could take some pics, and he immediately asked, "Canadian?" LOL.
Walked around some more. Most of the stores were closed (for several days for New Year's), which honestly was a big bummer. We knew there was a risk that stores would be closed. This isn't a main area like Shibuya. It's pretty much all independent shops.
We were warned that a lot of independent stores and restaurants might be closed for the first week of the new year as most folks were traveling home to spend the holidays with family. What made Shimokitazawa appealing to us was that it was mostly independent stores so, yep, mostly closed or limited hours.
We headed out to Shibuya in hopes of finding things that were open.
Much different vibe. A lot more stores open, but still not all. Very busy compared to Shimokitazawa.
Shimokitazawa is known for their music scene. We were hoping to get in a live performance or two while in the city. Sadly all the venues were closed for the holidays, except New Year's Eve!
Lucky for us the Basement Bar had an event tonight and tickets were being sold at the door. Nice! We checked it out.
Shimokitazawa is full of "live houses", which are small music venues -- one of the main reasons that the Bocchi manga/anime is set here.
But, since Bocchi is a highschooler, did that mean that underage kids could go watch bands? The answer is yes.
Elaine and I went to the Basement Bar, which was hosting a multi-band New Year's Eve party. It's a small venue of three little stages in the basement of a commercial building. When we got there, I asked the doorman if kids were allowed.
He asked, "How old?"
"14".
"Ok".
So, we texted the kids to come by.
Super cool that the kids could experience this. Both kids have been to concerts. Kali is a fan but Kyle not so much. The experience at this venue is very different than at the concerts they've been to so far.
The music was really good and everyone enjoyed themselves.
The first group we saw were the Bagpipes. Kali really liked them. They had some merch so I tried to buy a tee for her. There was a little merch table at the back of the room they played in, but no one could sell me anything. Everyone I asked said... you have to buy it from a band member. Well sure... ok. Finally found one and got the tee... then of course needed a photo too!
I assume this is normal, but someone was selling curry rice in each of the stage rooms. And, it was separate from the bar. There were tables on the side.
We had been there for a couple of hours. I had four beers and was essentially done for the night. So, Elaine and I went back to the hotel. The kids stayed. Kali walked back alone about 30 minutes later. Kyle stayed til the NYE countdown, which was a couple more hours.
Everyone had a good time! Wonder if Kyle realizes what a cool experience it was to ring in the new year in an underground bar in Shimokitazawa at the ripe old age of 14.
Happy New Year!!!